Overview | How We Rate This Trip | Route Descriptions & Maps | Road Stories

Overview

In 2015, we entered Thailand at Mukdahan (east Thailand) and meandered west to Ayuthaya (easy transport to Don Muang Airport with bikes).

In 2013 we returned to Chiang Rai and road south to Ayuthaya. In 2012 we entered Thailand from Northern Laos at Chiang Khong. Repeated our trip to Chiang Rai, then did a loop to Chiang Mai returning to Chiang Rai. These routes are all updated.

In February 2010 we cut through Thailand from Pakse Laos to Vientiane, Laos and then came back to Thailand in March and rode from Chiang Sean to Chang Mai. It’s a terrible time of year to be here because they burn the fields and the air quality is thick with smoke. The smoke is so thick that you can barely make out the sun. Best time to ride here is November and December.

Trip January 2007

from Chiang Rai to Southwestern border with Malaysia (blue)

2006 February and March

in Northwestern Area (red)

The Thai road system is becoming world class. Well engineered, wide with a shoulder and alternative, less traveled, routes are now often available. This makes for great biking. Also, Thailand, for any type of tourist is user friendly. The food is fresh and clean, the accommodations are very good value. Cold drinks are always available even with clean ice. The scenery is often spectacular. The people and the climate are warm. The issues are: the lack of English spoken, the lack of reliable information and the smoky haze that starts in mid February and lasts till the rains arrive.

How We Rate This Destination

Roads: 8

As Thailand has developed, two things have happened. First, all the main roads have added wider shoulders for motor bikes and bikes. Second, the secondary road system is greatly improved. Also, the engineering is world class so that the grades are usually moderate.

Traffic: 8

In 2006, the north, for biking is much improved. First, the secondary road system offers quiet alternatives. The issue is to find these roads. We were lucky enough to have a “Rural Roads Department” map of the Chiang Rai area and that helped. Secondly, the main highways almost always have a shoulder for bikes and motor bikes. Finally, the Thai drivers are very respectful of the bicyclers’ space.

Weather: 7

In the dry season, there is almost no chance of rain. November to February is the best time. It’s cooler and it’s clearer. By the end of February, the heat builds up and the fields are being burned. The visibility becomes so poor that the awesome vistas in the mountains are blotted out. Its also a factor for simple breathing. After March 1, the air quality goes to hell. UPDATE 2015, January can be cool in East, then smokey haze.

Winds: 7

The winds are predictable most of the year. They blow from the north from October to March. In late March they switch to the south, and at this time of the change, the winds are erratic. Also, from day to day and hour to hour they vary in intensity. Strangely, the winds seemed stronger in the morning and died down in the afternoon. In the mountains, the winds were less predictable.

Scenery: 8

The Mae Hong Son loop, all the way down to Mae Sot is brilliant. The back roads of the north were very good. Our trip to Nan could be very good but once they start burning the fields about mid February, the visibility drops way off. In fact, once in Lampang the setting sun disappeared into the smoke haze before it got to the horizon. So timing for the grand mountain views is important.

Information: 4

The Tourist offices are of no help. Maps are generally not complete. The Thais and the the ExPats only know their limited area. Your questions will always be answered but it’s a matter of face so that the information is completely unreliable. Then there’s the language barrier. Few speak English. Finally, they will always point you to the main road. Also, the Lonely Planet is geared to the highlights so there are cities, much less towns, that are not mentioned at all. We found one valuable map put out by the Rural Roads department of Chiang Rai. We got it at their office outside of Chiang Rai.

Road Safety: 7

We heard endless complaints about the Thai drivers. Yes, they do pass on curves and yes they do drive all over the road. But there’s a system. On a bike you are to the far left of all the traffic. The traffic, even the biggest trucks, are respectful of your space. You never get crowded. The shoulders are designed for bikes and motor bikes so you have your own lane.

General Safety: 8

You would never bike in Bangkok so we never go there except to fly in and out. I assume that it’s the crime capital of Thailand. Elsewhere, even the cities, were safe both for you and your bike. With the develop ment of the Thai economy, it seems that crime, even petty crime, has abated greatly. The Thai police have a reputation for corruption but as a tourist you are treated like an honored guest. They are also about the best source of road and city information.

Value: 8

Food, Accommodations and fluids were of a high standard. Meals would cost only $2-$3. Rooms would go for $8 – $20. Beverages were generally cheap. You can live well for $25 to $30 a day.

Fluids: 8

Bottled water is available everywhere. Its cheap and usually cold. Soda, juices and a large assortment of energy drinks are everywhere. In the cities, you can get a good cup of coffee. Beer is good. Some is too strong. We drank beer over ice. The round ice is purified and available everywhere. Cold drinks can always be found.

Food: 7

First of all, the Thais are very clean with their food. We had a few twinges due to the spices but never got sick. We love the Thai Curries but only occasionally did we find these curries for dinner. The food, including in the markets, is usually the same old Chinese standards. Lunch was our favorite meal because you can always find a good bowl of noodle soup, which is our preferred lunch. Often, a western breakfast was included with the hotel room.

Accomodations: 7

The guesthouses and hotels are of a good standard. You usually can have an attached bathroom and hot water. One issue is that the small guesthouses had very hard beds, actually uncomfortable. Frequently, the rooms were very high quality at very reasonable prices. Another issue was to figure out if a small town had accommodations. The information was very unreliable. UPDATE 2015, hotels are aging and some not well maintained. Now resorts can be a better alternative. Resorts are bungalows usually on highways.

People: 9

The Thais are a special people. Of course, it is the land of the smile and their natural politeness always shows through. They are kind. We never felt threatened while riding on the roads. They always gave us room. This category would be a 10 except for 2 things: 1) very few speak English and 2) They will save “face” by always giving you information, even if it’s absolutely wrong.

Culture: 7

The Thais have adapted to western ways. You seldom encounter their dance or music. But, they do have an unique tolerant attitude toward their fellow man. The minority hill tribes are adapting to the Thai ways so that there is less and less that is observable from the seat of your bike.

History: 5

I have to say that the Thai cities are basically concrete wastelands. It is as if they’re built in a tropical soviet style. The temples are usually all look alike. Sokathai and SiSatchanalai are historical parks but pale in comparison with Cambodia and Burma.

TOTAL SCORE 108

Route Descriptions and Maps

2015 Laos Border at Savannakhet to Ayuthaya Thailand

Laos Border Bridge Savannkhet to Mukdahan 7Ks

No bikes allowed on bridge – must get transportation. From the bridge out to Hwy 212, left, 4-lanes, then left into Mukdahan at 7Ks. There is a bus but it is easier with the bikes to ask a small truck to give you a lift across the bridge.

Mukdahan to Lueng Nok Tha 84Ks

To 2034 (road along river dead ends) 4-lanes to 5Ks then 2-lanes with shoulder. Moderate traffic. Rolling hills. Not a quiet back road. At 17Ks, Hwy 4007, we stayed straight. On 4007, its a short cut by 5Ks. Cross wind.
At 34Ks in Don Tan, right on 2116 formerly 2277. Great tree shaded road through rubber & sugar. At 45Ks, Hwy 4025 (Alternate route to Mukdahan). At 54Ks, Hwy 4007, intersecting with 2116. Older road from here. At 75Ks, better road. Follow wind mostly. Hwy 212 at 82Ks. Left then right on Hwy 2047. Center at 84Ks.

Lueng Nok Tha to Phon Thong 70Ks

West on 2047 to 5Ks, right on 2116 (formerly 2036). 2-lanes with narrow shoulder. Light traffic. Some early busses. NE (cross wind).OK dry scenery. Mostly flat and straight. At 35Ks, more traffic but now a wide shoulder. Some rolling hills and tail winds. Fast but a highway ride. Phon Thong at 70Ks (Good Resort room, 2ks before on left).

Phon Thong to Roi Et 50Ks

2116 to 2044 at 5Ks. Left, 2-lanes busy Hwy, wide shoulder . Dull scenery NE (tail) strong wind. Flat At 35Ks, 4-lanes. Just a Hwy ride. Roi Et at 50Ks.

Roi Et to Phayakknaphum 80Ks

Out 2045, 4-lanes past Ring Road at 4Ks. Then 2-lanes with wide shoulder. Busy then quieter. Easy rolling. NE (tail) wind. So-so scenery. Wapi Pathum at 37Ks. Out on 2040. (It’s confusing) Also called 2045. Flat, dull, busier. Hwy riding on good shoulder. NE (tail) wind. Town at 80Ks.

Phayakknaphum to Chum Phuang 72Ks

Into town to Market t 4Ks then on 3066 west, beautiful rural road. At 16Ks, junction 202. Busy Hwy with shoulder. At 21Ks, left on side road to Putthai Song. Town at 25Ks. Right on 2079 to 34Ks, Right. Dirt Road, mostly paved and some broken. At 47Ks, junction 4057 in Mueang Yang. Continue west. New marked 4057. Good road to 52Ks, 4057 turns north. Go straight. Gravel and broken. Paved to 63Ks. Left on 225. Very narrow shoulder. Some traffic. NE winds all day. At 70Ks, right on 2175 into Chum Phuang at 72Ks.

Chum Phaung to Phi Mai 40Ks

2226 west. 2-lanes, tree lined with shoulder. Moderate traffic (per Google Map) At 17Ks (opposite police box) right. Broken paved road. Quiet. At 20Ks, bridge over river then left. Poor road but it generally gets better as you go. At 37Ks, junction 3127, left. Narrow. Busy. Follow signs to Phi Mai Historical Park at 40Ks.

Phi Mai to Nakon Rathasima (Korat) (per Google Map) 63Ks

3036 past 206 at 1K. A little old and rough to 7Ks then good 2-lanes, small shoulder. Surprise! Quiet! Dull, flat. Now light winds and warmer AM. At 27Ks, junction 226, right 2-lanes, small shoulder, busy. At 37Ks, 4-lanes and a wide shoulder. At 60Ks, right on 224 then left at 62Ks before the bridge. At 63Ks, right over R/R tracks. The center.

Nakhon Rathasima (Korat) to Dan Khun Thot 71Ks

North to Hwy 2. At 3Ks, slight left, then right. North. Hwy 204 (by pass) at 6Ks. We simply worked our way north and finally reached 2198 at 13Ks. (No sure way) left (west) on 2198. Light traffic. Narrow shoulder. Variable
light winds. So-so scenery. At 35Ks, junction 2068. Right. 4-lanes with a shoulder. Moderate traffic. At 50Ks, left on 2148, slightly rolling. 4-lanes with shoulder. Moderate traffic, also dull. At 71Ks, junction 201 and Dan Khun Thot.

Dan Khun Thot to Chaiyaphum 80Ks

Hwy 201, 2-lanes with shoulder to 9Ks then basically no shoulder to 13Ks. Then 4-lanes with shoulder. Moderate, fast traffic. Some trucks. Flat.
4-lanes all the way to Chaiyaphum. Soft variable winds. In town at circle at 80Ks.

Chaiyaphum to Chatturat (backroads)

Circle, north (left) on 2051 at 1K. Left on Sahakron Road at 2Ks. At 3Ks, merge straight. Follow to Wat at 11Ks, stay straight then stay right. Older road. At 17Ks, 225, right. At 18Ks, left toward Ban Khwao. At 19Ks, right on narrow cement road. At 21Ks, Ban Khwao. Junction 3002. Left. 2-lanes narrow shoulder. Light traffic. OK scenery. At 35Ks, junction 201. Right 4-lanes. Wide shoulder. Moderate traffic to Chatturat at 51Ks.**
**We tried to cross 201 and find a road to 2180. Took a dirt road but it bent too far east and after 8Ks, we back-tracked to 201.

Chatturat to Thesa Thit 82Ks

Out on 2179 then right on 4014 at 2.5Ks. New 2-lane quiet road. Rural scenery. Long easy hills. Mostly up. At 27Ks, junction 2354,left. At 32Ks, Sap Yai, right on 2354. At 34Ks, downhill to 37Ks. 2-lanes. Light traffic. Good mountain views. Rolling hills (some moderate). At 65Ks, turn for
Pa Hin Ngam. (13Ks in) we go straight on 2354. Easy rolling hills, busier to Thesa Thit at 205 at 82Ks.

Thesa Thit to Chai Badan 76Ks (on Hwy 205, 48Ks)

Hwy 205, 2-lanes with shoulder. Rolling down hills to 17Ks then flat to 23Ks. 3020*. At 25Ks, left on 2247. Pretty rural, quiet rolling road to 2256 at 41Ks. Right. Up moderate to 44Ks then a gradual descent past 2357 at 51Ks and 2243 at 52Ks, moderate traffic but a narrow shoulder. Good scenery. At 58Ks, 2338. Right. More traffic. Gradual up then gradual down. Road becomes 2089. At 76Ks, Hwy 205 in Chai Badan.

*We tried this road but we turned around because it turned too far east.

Chai Badan to Phatthana Nikon 65KS +/-

Back (south) out 2089. At 4Ks, junction 2338. Right on 2089. Gently rolling. Sugar cane and slow sugar cane trucks. Narrow shoulder but light traffic. At 19Ks, cross 2256. At 44Ks junction 3017. Right. Busy with trucks. Follow 3017 to left at 47Ks. Rough road. Swing west then north then west on 4-lane road at 57Ks. (Hwy 3333 runs parallel and is better riding). This is not really a town. Only resorts that are spread out.

Phatthana Nikon to Lopburi 46Ks

West on 3333 past Hwy 21 at 3Ks. 2-lanes with narrow shoulder. Light traffic. NE (tail) wind. Mostly flat. At 15Ks, left on 3333. Good scenery. Past gravel pits. Junction 3017 at 21Ks, right 3017, 2-lanes, narrow shoulder, busy, thru not over the small out cropping. Gradual descent. Then flat. At 34Ks, Hwy 1, right to town. Big Hwy. At 43Is, Hwy 1 turns right. Go straight on 311 into Lopburi at 46Ks.

Lopburi to Ayuthaya 69Ks

311 to 3196 at 5Ks. Out on 3196. Wide shoulder but the best feature here is the quiet paved way on the other side of the canal. Your own bike path to 31Ks. Strong ENE (side) winds. On and off paved path. At 39Ks, junction, straight along 347. Quieter. The path peters out. At 55Ks, straight into 3032. At 58Ks, right into Wat then over foot bridge (must carry your bike up and down) then south on 2003. Junction at 64Ks, left. Curvy but directly into town. At 68Ks, right 1Ks to Hotel and Guest House area at 69Ks.

Thailand 2013

Chiang Rai through the middle to Ayuthaya with side trip to Kanchanaberie (Bridge on the River Kwai)

Chiang Rai to Phan 73Ks

Hwy 1 at 2Ks south to 1233 left at 3Ks at 8Ks, right on 1173 at 11Ks, onto 1152. All flat, at 16Ks, right on 4016. At 26Ks,left on 1020. At 37Ks, right on 1190, Rolling, Quiet. At 49Ks, left on 1181. At 54Ks, junction right. Still on 1181. Flat. Nice. At 64Ks, T-junction, right on 1126, Busy. At 70Ks, Hwy 1. Left at 73Ks, left to center of town.

Phan to Phayao 83Ks

Back to Junction 1126 and 1181 at 9Ks, less busy. Good scenery. At 20Ks, some wild hills then gradual down to flat valley. Wide road at turn to PaDaet at 36Ks. Right at 1202. South (Head) wind. Not typical at this time. Good scenery. Light traffic (some trucks). some mild hills. More traffic into Phayao but wider road. At 82Ks, Hwy. 1. Cross into town at 83Ks

Phayao to Chiang Muan 83Ks

South 4Ks on Hwy 1 then left on 1021. 4-lanes flat. At 13Ks, right on 1251. Flat to 35Ks then choppy hills. Good scenery. South (head) winds again. At 40Ks, mostly climb to 47Ks. Longer hills. Then mostly down to 53Ks. Then longer, gradual hills. At 61Ks, 1K climb and another up to 64Ks then down for 5Ks. At 73Ks, junction, 1091.Right. Rolling. More traffic. Junction at 81Ks. Its 2Ks out to Basic Guest House

Chiang Muan to Sang 58Ks **

To junction 1091 then out on 1019 to 6Ks, right n 1120. Hells. good senery. Light traffic but bust. A few trucks. More down than up to 25Ks then mostly climb to 39Ks. Then a long gradual descent to junction 1154. At 50Ks, left. Mostly flat into Sang at 58Ks. More traffic but wide. **No accommodation in Sang. There’s a Thai “resort” at the junction with 103, 6Ks further.

Song to Phrae 57Ks

Out to Hwy. 103, 6ks. Then left a busy Hwy. with truck but there’s a motorcycle lane. Easy rolling hills. At 19Ks, intersection Hwy. 101(new hotel at the intersection). Straight on 1134. Rolling then flat. Light traffic. Good scenery. At 31Ks junction. Straight. At 32Ks, T-Junction, right. At 33Ks, T-junction, left. 1134 returns to 101 at 43Ks. (I missed the town) Immediate left on 4021 then at 45Ks, right on 4011. Parallel to Hay 1. T-junction at 49Ks. Jog left then right , ends at 50Ks. Out to Hwy. 1, we just slogged into town at 57Ks.

Phrae to Den Chai 29Ks

(I blew it, lost the way). 3Ks ti 1023, At 4Ks, over river and left on 4004. At 10Ks, left toward Ban Pongphao. Made a mistake back to 101. At 29Ks, junction 101 and 11.

Den Chai to Uttaradit 58Ks

At 0Ks, left on Hwy. 11. Rolling. Divided 4-lane highway. Better here on 101. Wide shoulder. OK scenery.. A 1K gradual climb to 13Ks. Down 1K then climb to pass at 18Ks. Good views. Moderate descent to 22Ks. Rolling to 25Ks, left on 1105. Older narrow, quiet road. Hilly but beautiful and generally down. At 40Ks, flatter. At 45Ks, T-junction Hwy. 1045. At 49Ks, intersection Hwy 11. Straight into town are 4-lanes road. Utteradit at 58Ks.

Den Chai to Uttaradit 58Ks

Utteradit to Phichai 49Ks

Out on 102 to Hwy. 1040 at 3Ks. Left. 2-lanes with shoulder. Some traffic. At 10Ks junction, Hwy. 1104. We stayed on Hwy. 1040 to split in road. Bear right. Along train tracks. At 14Ks, T-junction. Either way we went left on 1166. (Many options along the river). Along the train tracks. At 26Ks, junction. Stay straight. At 28Ks, right. At times back to 1166. Stay along river after 38Ks. Road becomes rough. Bridge at 40Ks we stay straight along river to 47Ks. T-junction left over bridge into town at 49Ks. This as not a direct route but quiet and fun.

Pichai to Phitsanulok 76Ks

Over bridge to Junction 1104 at 2Ks, left. 2-lanes with a shoulder. Flat straight through rice fields. light traffic sometimes fast. Some trucks. Light, variable winds. At 36Ks, 1104 becomes 1325. After 50 Meters. A choice left, heaven, straight Hell. Along Canal. At 50Ks, left. Rundown small roads. South and west. (We failed and came out on Hwy 12, a major Hwy. with a cycle lane. Poor) All is flat. Into town and over bridge at 76Ks.

Phitsanulok day ride

Left on Hwy. 2002. Sign for Narasuan Dam and Phro Phviram over canal. At 42Ks, t-junction. Right on 2002, narrow 2-lanes but quiet and flat. Good rural scenery. Variable winds. short broken surfaces but a good road. At 46Ks, over a canal. At 50Ks over another canal. At 53Ks, bear left on 2011. At 64Ks, Hwy. 126. Left over river to Hwy. 1086 at 65Ks. Right. Highway riding at 68Ks over train tracks and right. In town at 72Ks.

Phitsanulok to Phichit 63Ks

Out along river then left to city 117. Immigration office at 5Ks. Road becomes 1063. At 10Ks, Hwy. 126. Right over river then left on road along river at 12Ks. Sometimes its a dirt road but always on the rivers’s edge. At 25Ks right over river. (the river road doesn’t go through) then right on 1114 at 29Ks, *****see 21 pages later***left on 4018. Along train tracks, rice field. Back to 1114 at 38Ks, left. At 41Ks T-junction. Left. Sugar cane trucks o 1114. This section is narrow to 1221 at 45Ks. Right over bridge then left into Phichit at 63Ks.

Phichit to Taphan Hin 32Ks

Out on 113 to 115 at 3Ks. Left over river then right at 4Ks on 5046. Stay straight between RR tracks and the river. At 15Ks cross 1204. At 18Ks, fork, go left. Now on Hwy, 0006. At 30Ks, T-junction. Right 100 meters then left along river to Taphan Hin at 32Ks.

Taphan Hin to Nakhon 86Ks

South to cross 113 at 2Ks straight on 1313. 2-lanes with a shoulder. Light traffic. South (head)winds. Rice fields. Flat . Mun Nak at 23Ks. Straight south on 1118. (not well marked) a little busier. At 44Ks, Chum Saeng. stay right of RR tracks. At 45Ks, junction 225, right. More and more traffic, but a wide shoulder. Uninteresting just to get there. At 85Ks, Hwy. 1. Right then right again into town at 8Ks.

Nakhon Sawan to Uthai Thani 64Ks

Out over Hwy. 1 along river on right side. After 5Ks (before 6Ks) a short way right then left on 3005. After Cement Factory left to littler river road right. At 10Ks, wider Hwy 122, the left on 1Lane road nearer river (before 3005). At 13Ks, back to 3005 left. At 14Ks, over bridge then left to small river road. Stay near river on only paved road. At 22Ks, Krok Phra.**(see note for better route) At 27Ks, onto Hwy. 1111. Bridge over river but stay straight. At 32Ks, take the dirt path along the river to the paved road again. At 34Ks, out to 3099, left. At 44Ks (at 5K marker) right on small paved road. A Y-junction, stay left. At 46Ks back to Hwy. 3099. Right. At 47Ks, under 333. Road ends at 51Ks to 333, left. 4-lanes, straight hen at 62Ks bear left ito Uthai Thani at 64Ks. **From Krok Phra it would be far shorter to follow 3319 for 5Ks than 3220 to Uthai Thani 24Ks. Our route was almost double the distance, triple the time and half the fun. Also not necessary to ride on 333. Our way was far to circuitous.

Uthai Thani to Chai Nat 31Ks

Out on 3265 to junction 3183. Your choice. We went on 3265. At 9Ks, Wat Sung. tour on bike for 1K then again on 3265. At 12Ks, ferry across river to Manoron. right at 13Ks on 5062. At 18Ks, T-junction 3244. Right then left on 4005 (AKA 1005). At 20Ks, past bridge across river. Along river. Quiet. At 24Ks, right, stay along river. At 28Ks right again. Into Chai Nat at 31Ks.

Chai Nat to Lopburi 84Ks

Out to 113 at 1K. Right. At 7Ks, over sam. **At 8Ks T-junction 311 left or 3183 right. Traffic on 311 is moderate but fast so we go right then left after 500 meters on 4004. Narrow, some fast traffic, a sea of green. At 16Ks, junction 3010. Straight. Quieter. At 27Ks, T-junction 311. Right. Light traffic. InBury at 38Ks. Occasionally a parallel road but little advantage. At 54Ks, 311 goes left. Highway riding over expressway at 60Ks.** Immediately take the minor road on the left side of the canal to 65Ks. Paved then dirt to 70Ks. Cross 311 to river road (You can probably cross 311 before the dirt road to the river road.) Stay straight on this road enen through a covered market to 79Ks. Back to 311 into town at 84Ks. **See return trip along river. Singburi to Chai Nat.

Lopburi to Ayuthaya 70Ks

Out to 3196. At 6Ks, over Hwy 633. Along a canal. 2-lanes with a cycle shoulder. Moderate traffic, some fast, some big. On the other side of the canal isa single lane road. Sometimes dirt but after 10Ks to 24Ks 95% paved. No traffic. At 24Ks, poor dirt to 27Ks. Better on Highway here. Then paved again. At 32Ks, cross 3267. Now on 347. At 36Ks, no more canal road. At 48Ks, 347 goes right to cross the Motorway. Its a overpass that we avoided by going south next to the Motorway for 2Ks then under it and back tracked so that we stayed in the left lane. 347 is divided 4-lanes with a cycle shoulder. At about 60Ks, junction 309, left, to T-junction at 66Ks, left , in city to hotel area at 70Ks.

Ayutthaya to Suphanburi 76Ks

Out over bridge to west, then right at 5Ks on 3412. At 7Ks,get across Hwy. at 8Ks, left on 4016. At 19Ks T-junction on 3263 over bridge then left on 2550 (old road) at 24Ks cross 3111. At 25Ks, go on 3263 over bridge. (We went wrong) find 5025 at 29Ks. At 38Ks, left at Wat over bridge Then right at paved road just before the highway. Right. At 49Ks, road becomes 3039. At 59Ks, Hwy. 340, busy 4-lane Highway. Left at 63Ks over bridge then right at 64Ks on 3351/3328. At 72Ks, cross 357 (Hwy. to U Thong). At 75Ks, right over bridge to Hotel at 76Ks. East (tail) winds.

Suphanburi to Kanchanaburi 106Ks

Junction 357 and 3260 at 5Ks, south. At 14Ks cross 3318. Moderate traffic, fast, some big. At 34Ks, 4-lanes through Sang Phi Noreg (SP??). At 37Ks, right on 3505. At 39Ks, left on 3009 (not marked) at 42Ks, bear left. No number road going west. At 48Ks, bear left and meet 321. Over at 49Ks*. Rougher road. At 52Ks, /////// takes us left then left again to 3358 at 57Ks. Right. At 72Ks, Hwy. 324, left. 2-lanes. At 78Ks, 4-lanes. At 78Ks, 4-lanes, busy. At 80Ks cross 346. At 104Ks, junction 323 right to Guest House area at 106Ks.

Kanchanburi to 323 junction 71Ks

Over bridge to 3228 at 2Ks, right. One steep 500ml climb and descent. At 13Ks, past 4023. At 15Ks, past 209. At 36Ks left on 3455 along the RR tracks. At 46Ks, straight but not on 4032. At 57Ks, straight to Cliff side train tracks but the road dead ends. Back to 66Ks, left. At 71Ks, hwy. 323. 2-lanes with wide shoulder but busy. (estimate 25Ks to Namtok and 40Ks to Kanchanaburi)

Kanchanabari to U Thong 85Ks

Out to 324 and bypass 321 at 4Ks 324 North, 4-lanes, busy. At 21Ks, 3001 (we were going to take this but it looked too busy with trucks). At 23Ks, right on 3007. At 31Ks, left on 4034 (we went too far). At 40Ks, 346 right then left on 4095 at 41Ks. Then left on 3062 along the canal. At 56Ks, cross 3358. At 62Ks, road turns dirt. Next to 324, out to Hwy. at 64Ks. 4-lanes and busy. at 76Ks, bear left on 321**Into UThong at 85Ks, (Nice hotel: Polar Mansion) **321 was the road I wanted to avoid but always ended up on it.

U Thong to Supbanburi 58Ks

(Direct route Hwy. 331, 32Ks. Our route way longer but fun.) Out 321 to 6Ks, left on back roads. At 16Ks 3461, right. Then left at at 17Ks. North and east. At 31Ks, 3460 right. R 32KA, 322 right over bridge then left at 3057 at 33Ks. At 40Ks, right on 3005. at 44Ks, T-junction right on 3003, cross 357, At 50Ks, T-junction 322. Left. then into town at 58Ks.

Ayutthaya to Singburi 84Ks (81Ks with not mistakes)

Cross river going north at 3Ks. Find 2003 at 8Ks. (3 extra Ks to find)????At 14Ks Hwy. 32. Grunt over walkway straight out to 3032, left to 347 at 19Ks north. At 28Ks, left on 4007 at 36Ks 3267, left. Over Hwy.32, into Ang Thong at 44Ks Hwy. 309 north. 2-lanes with shoulder. Light but bast traffic. At 80Ks, divided highway to Singburi at 84Ks.

Singburi to Chai Nat 61Ks

Out on west bank of river, brilliant. 8Ks paved then gravel to 9Ks back to 311. At 10Ks, right on old Hwy. At 12Ks, right just before highway. Along the river. At 17Ks, over river then along river but disjointed roads so out to 301 at 24Ks, left. 2-lanes, sometimes a little broken. 200 meters away from 32 till 45KS. There is a complex of roads left of 3018. Half as fast twice the enjoyment. At 54Ks, T-junction. right on 311. Shoulder. Moderate traffic, at 59Ks, Hwy. 1, 2Ks to town.

Nakon Sawan to Junction Hwy 1 & 1074 (hotels) 75Ks

3Ks to turn 1182 left. All urban to right turn, narrow roads. At 18Ks, on 015 over river. Left before highway on minor road to Kao Liao at 23Ks, minor roads along river. At 25Ks, past another bridge, Hwy. 1084 or river road (not continuous) to Banphot Phsai at 43Ks. Over river at 46Ks then 1073 right at 50Ks road goes west. Go east on rural road (along the river), At 57Ks, right. At 64Ks, a bridge across but we go left. Around the Karsts to Hwy. 1(Hell after Heaven) at 70Ks Junction at 75Ks.

Junction to Kamphaeng Phet 75Ks

out to 1074 over bridge at 10Ks, left before highway. Along river then out to Hwy. 1084 at 14Ks. Tired and failed. to find a river road. There;s no continuous road so stuck on Hwy.1084. At least 4 bridges over the river now. Traffic moderate but fast and Cane trucks. Into Kamphaeng Phet at 80Ks but 5Ks spent looking for the river road.

Kamphaeng Phet to Sukhothai

update 2/13 101 busier now. Not so good Hwy. 1272 improved so traffic (very light ) moves fast. Old city to New city, same route.

Sukhothai to Phitsanulok 85Ks

On other side of river from 1293. “Find” 4003 south to 14Ks then left over bridge. Along tracks on east side past river road. Free lance going south on county roads. End up on 1063. At 27Ks, left on 4018 along RR tracks to 37Ks, t-junction 1114. Left. (We tried and failed to cut down to Phichit before Hwy. 1221)

Thailand 2010 -Ubon Ratchatani to Nong Khai (2 different ways)

Laos border to Khong Chiam 26Ks

Chongmek, Laos border, out on Hwy.#217. 2-lanes with cycle lane. Moderate rolling hills. At 11Ks, right on Hwy. #2173. Good 2-lane road with a cycle lane. Rolling hills. At 18Ks, right at junction on Hwy.#2173. Now no shoulder but little traffic. At 22Ks, a shoulder again. At 24Ks, over bridge. At 25Ks, right to Khong Chiam at 26Ks. Update: 3/17, Hwy 217 is 4 lanes. Bear right at 1K.

Khong Chiam to Ubon Ratchatani 82Ks

To Hwy, right to junction Hwy.#2222 at 2Ks. Left. A short climb to good views. 2-lane Hwy with shoulder. Rolling hills then flattens out. Gentle follow (east) wind. so-so scenery. Drum and Gong Makers area. At 33Ks, junction. (Left over bridge into Phibun Mangsahan) straight on right side of river. Unnumbered road. At 46Ks, Tan Sum. At 50Ks, road narrows. Now named Rural Road #4005. Variable road, sometimes rough an/or narrow. Flat. Little traffic. At 73Ks, cross Hwy. 231. Now narrow and busier into town. Airport at 80Ks. Left into center at 82Ks. City riding.

Udon Ratchatani to Amnat Charoen 77Ks

Out Hwy. #212. Urban. Then 4-lanes divided highway with a wide cycle lane. Simply getting to the north. Moderate traffic. NE (head) wind. Dull scenery. Slightly rolling. At 43Ks, 2-lanes with a shoulder. Busier road. At 72Ks, 4lanes again into Amnat Charoen at 77Ks. Simply a highway ride. Update: 3/17, A bit more traffic.

Amnat Charoen to Mukdahan 90Ks

Continue on Hwy. #212. 4-lands with a cycle shoulder. Redundant scenery. Rolling. Light traffic. NE(head) winds. Just to get there. In PM, wind shift (tail wind). Rolling down into Mukdahan, still on 4-lanes with a cycle lane. Mukkdahan at 90Ks.

Mukdahan to That Phanom 52Ks

Back way and scenic way immediately along the river. At 7Ks, under Friendship bridge. Stay as close to the river as possible. It’s trial and error. Often a concrete narrow road along the river. Sometimes it dead ends. The direct way is 51Ks. This interesting way (even with mistakes) was 52Ks. At feeder rivers, forced back to the minor highway. Nearer That Phanom, it was harder to find the minor roads along the river. 52Ks to town on #3015.

That Phanom to Sakon Nakhon 75Ks

Out on #212 toward Mukdahan. At 3Ks, 2-lanes and no shoulder. At 5.5Ks, right on Hwy.#223. 2-lanes with a one meter shoulder. Light to moderate traffic. Flat and featureless. Heading inland. East (tail) wind. Afternoon, winds switch. North or west (head) winds. At 65Ks, 4-lanes. More traffic. Greener. At 72Ks, 6-lanes into town. A concrete jungle at 75Ks.

Sakon Nakhon to Ban Chiang 117Ks

Out on Hwy. #22. Junction at 6Ks. Wide Hwy. with a frontage road and cycle lane. After 35Ks, 2-lanes with a cycle path. Moderate traffic. Flat. East (tail) winds. Fast Ks. Around Panna Nikon at 41Ks. Through Pang Kon at 56Ks. There is a hotel here, At 80Ks, more rolling. At 85Ks, Sawang Daen Din (Hotels). More traffic. Flat again. At 50Ks from Ubon Thani, junction. Right at 111Ks. 6Ks to Ban Chiang at 117Ks.

Ban Chiang to Nong Khai 100Ks

Hwy. 2003 to Hwy.#22 at Nong Mek. At 9Ks. Right **. At 16Ks, right into Nong Han. At 17Ks, right toward Phen on Hwy. #2312. Light traffic. Good 2-lane road with a small shoulder. dull scenery. Rolling. Winds, west (cross). Gradual climbs. At 61Ks, Phen on #2022. Now going west (head winds). At 75Ks, Hwy.#2. Right. 4-lanes divided with cycle path. Lots of traffic. At 92Ks, Hwy.#2 goes to left. Go straight on Hwy. #233 Nong Khai at 100Ks. **I think I could have avoided Hwy.#22 but I screwed up.

Nong Khai to Laos Border 5Ks

Thai border control is 1K south of the bridge so head west but also south. The bridge is narrow.

3/17 Alternate Route via the Middle, Ubon Ratchatani to Yasothon 103Ks

Hwy 23 (no reasonable alternative). 4-lanes and a wide cycle shoulder. Not that bad, only moderate traffic.

Yasothon to Roi Et 72Ks

On Hwy 23 for 3Ks, left on 202. Bad, very narrow shoulder and fast traffic. At 16Ks, right on 4046. At 18Ks, right on 2043. 2-lanes, no shoulder and moderate traffic (even this is too much for this small road). Better rural scenery but bad trip. Best to stay on the main road with a wide shoulder. Roy Et at 72Ks.

Roi Et to Maka Sarakham 46Ks

Hwy 23, cross winds.

Maha Sarakham to Khon Koen 79Ks

(we went by bus) Hwy 213, Hwy 2188, Hwy 209 all 2-lanes with no shoulder and too much traffic. No good alternative routes. Finally Hwy 12, wide with shoulder and traffic.

Khon Koen to Udon Thani 115Ks

Hwy 2, 4-lanes with wide shoulder. Headwinds. Dull.

Udon Thani to Nong Khai 60Ks

Hwy 2, 4-lanes with a wide shoulder. Less traffic.

Day ride from Nong Khai to Si Chiang Mai

Riverside options start at 1.4Ks after going under the Friendship Bridge. (Blue Water Tower on left) Mostly paved. Sometimes more than one road along the river. Out to feeder river then back in. Still great.

March 2010

Chiang Khong to Chiang Sean 69Ks

(**See previous trip below in opposite direction. Note this is 2010 update to our previous trip of 2006) Roads are now older and in some parts broken. On Hwy. #1129 near Chiang Sean much more traffic.

Chiang Saen to Chiang Khong 69Ks

Update 3/2019: Never knew the Hwy #, but near the river. good road.Light traffic. Turn left or north at 16Ks across from the new bridge. Curvy but good road to 1209. Now busier with dump trucks! 4004, good road.

Update 3/2019: Hwy 1129 to Hwy 1290. Same road but now 4-lanes divided Hwy. Wide shoulder. Moderate traffic. 4007 excellent ride. Last 13Ks on Hwy 1290, very steep hills.

(2012 Update – Both 1129 and 4007 are older, patched and a little bumpy.) Hwy 1129 along river. 2-lanes with a small shoulder, light traffic, variable and light winds. Only occasional views of the river. To 17Ks, then straight onto Hwy 4007 along the river. Flat. Through farm fields, very quiet to 28Ks, junction. Left on 4007. After 40Ks, beautiful River vistas on rolling hills to 52Ks. Junction at 56Ks, left on 1129. (The 4007 loop adds 14Ks to trip) A steep 1K climb to a great vista and 1K steep down with great river vistas. Then short moderate and steep hills all the way to town 69Ks.

Chiang Sean to Chiang Rai 67Ks

(great ride on minor roads) (**See previous trip below in opposite direction from 2006 .)

Chiang Rai to Chiang Saen 67Ks

(Great ride on minor roads) To Hwy 1 then over bridge then first stop light at 3Ks right on back streets then to Hwy 3034 at 5Ks right (east) to 16Ks along the river. Left away from river. At 19Ks, junction, go straight. T-juntion at 25Ks (Hwy 1209) right. 2-lanes with a shoulder, very light traffic. Nice rice valley scenery. Rolling hills. Winds light and variable. At 47Ks, T-junction, right on 1098 then in 200 meters left on minor paved road. Some hills. T-Junction, left at 54Ks on Hwy 4004. At 64Ks, T-junction, Hwy 1016, right to town and Mekong River at 67K. Note; ** Finding the turn off of Hwy.#1209 at about 25Ks before Chiang Rai going toward Chiang Rai, don’t turn early because you will end up on the wrong side of the river and have to take Hwy.#1173 to Wiang Chai. It’s 20Ks longer and busier. So after the Round Wat Tower on Hwy.#1209 don’t take the first left, about 2Ks. Take the next paved left, about 2Ks further. It’s far better. Chiang Rai to Tha Ton 89Ks. (2012 Update – There is a 4-lane highway being built through there but you can avoid this.) (**See previous trip below in opposite direction. Note this is 2010 update to our previous trIp in 2006 Hwy.#1089 has more traffic. It’s a better road toward Tha Ton. Prevailing East Wind (head))

Tha Ton to Chiang Rai 89Ks

Hwy 1089. Easy grades up and down to 17Ks then start up a stream gradually to 23ks then steep. Excellent 2-lane road with a narrow shoulder, quiet. Great riding. Good scenery, tail (west) winds. Some hill villages. Top at 25Ks. Good views. Down & up to 31Ks past the turn off for Mae Salong. Stair steps down. More & more gradual. Steep at first. Nice scenery. Road a little broken at times. Winds flip to head winds. Fork, right toward Chiang Rai at 59Ks. At 61Ks, right on Hwy 1. Divided 4-lanes, busy with shoulder. Pineapple stands. At 76Ks, hwy 1209. Straight on Hwy 1. At 81Ks turn for airport. Over bridge and into Chaing Rai, right to center 89Ks. Busy into city.

Day ride from Chiang Rai

Chiang Rai to (My Dream Guest House) Ban Khwar Wua Dam boat Dock, 29Ks – 2012 Over bridge at 5Ks then left at 6Ks. Follow signs to Elephant Camp and Ban Rummit on Hwy #4044. Some hills along the river. At 22Ks, a dirt road over a short hill then paved. At 27Ks, narrow concrete. At 28Ks, good dirt road. At 29Ks, hanging bridge over river. Boat for Tha Ton stops here – if arranged before form Chiang Rai or Tha Ton. My Dream Guest House.

Ban Khwar Wua Dam boat Dock (My Dream Guest House) to Tha Ton

(see: Mydreamguesthouse.com) a) via long tail boat – leaves about Noon. (Must arrange in advance) b) via boat to Mae Saluk then ride to Tha Ton. Hilly 15Ks. c) via bike on a tough rough, hilly road to Mae Saluk. Ban Khwar Wua Dam (My Dream Guest House) to Chiang Rai 29Ks – 2012 Cross over the hanging bridge. Left. 2Ks of hilly dirt road. Then paved. Still hilly. Good scenery. Very curvy then straight in to town at 29Ks. Good scenery. Nice ride.

Tha Ton to Mae Salong 44Ks.

Out of town on Hwy.#1089 for 30Ks. gradually up. This description is the 14Ks from the turn off to Mae Salong. Up 3.5Ks, down 6Ks, up 7Ks, down 9.5Ks, up to Mae Salong at 14Ks very tough slog up. The return ride is far easier because 2/3’s is down, the ups are not as steep and so you have longer to recover between climbs. Mostly good road, narrow and then wider. Lots of vistas but hazy. Hill tribe people. Winds are not a factor.

Tha Ton to Fang 40Ks

(**See previous trip below in opposite direction. Note this is 2010 update to our previous trIp 2006) Out 5.5Ks on Hwy.#1089 then left in San Khong on narrow paved road (Hwy.#4016) over bridge at 10Ks. At 11. 5Ks, junction in Khai Nai, right (straight). (Left goes to Mae Saluk) on Hwy.# 3023. At 32Ks, #3022 goes left, go straight. Stop light at Hwy.#107 at 34Ks. Fang. This is now a better and longer route.

Fang to Tha Ton 36Ks (backway)

Update 3/2019: Turn off #107 to right. Over river to 3023 (no longer 6059). At 23Ks, Police Box. 3023 has some traffic, small but fast moving and the road is narrow. Hwy ,3023 turns right. Continue straight, still some traffic at 27Ks (before small bridge). Right. Cement then dirt then cement along a small canal. At 31ks, Hwy 107, right into Tha Ton at 34Ks.

Hwy 107 to stoplight then right on Hwy 6039 over bridge. Rural road with farm traffic that gets lighter. Good narrow road. At 23Ks, Hwy 6039 swings right. At 30Ks, over a hill. You can see the new bridge, left to bridge on a dirt road then a bit more to Hwy 1089 at the 29K marker. Left 5 Ks back to Tha Ton 36Ks. Hwy 6039 continues paved to Mae Saluk. The boat to Chiang Rai can pick you up there but make arrangements in Tha Ton before. After Mae Saluk Hwy 6039 deteriorates. (2012 Update – Road to and from bridge is paved Hwy 6039 is now 3023. To Mae Saluk, hilly 9Ks paved. Tough going after Mae Saluk but possible for the intrepid to Chiang Rai.)

Fang to Chiang Dao 85K

(**See previous trip below in opposite direction. Note this is 2010 update to our previous trIp 2006) Go back out to Hwy. 3023 from 107. 2Ks then to junction right and straight, paved road (ask for Mae Kha) cross Hwy.#109 at 10Ks in Mae Kha. Straight. (Now, when in doubt tend right, ask for Mae Soon) At 14Ks, junction Hwy.#4013, bear right. At 16Ks, junction Hwy.#107 in Mae Soon. Left. (Back way on somewhat broken quiet farm roads adds 4Ks) Gradually up rolling valley. At 26Ks, left toward Doiwiangpha National Park. In Chai Prakarn, over the river. At 28Ks, the Park is to the left. Go straight. Over river again to Hwy. 107 at 34Ks. Left at Ban Aie (This back way adds almost nothing to your distance and is far better). At 42Ks, start climb, (this is 43Ks from Chiang Dao, see pervious description from here on Hwy.#107. (2012 Update – Nothing has changed. Hwy 107 goes through excellent scenery but the road has no shoulder and there is traffic including trucks. We took by-pass to the road to the resorts near the mountain. At 81Ks in to 85Ks.)

Chiang Dao to Fang 80Ks

North on Highway 107, 2-lanes with a very small shoulder. Good views and long gradual hills. More up than down. Winds today from the south (tail), some clouds. Moderate, fast traffic with some big trucks which is the only negative. Beautiful karst mountains. Down 2Ks to stream at 29Ks. Then gradual climb to 37Ks. Then moderately down to river at 43Ks. Now a new highway with a wide shoulder into a wide valley. Very gradually down. One long village. Nothing special. Busy Highway. Fang 80Ks.

Chiang Dao to Chiang Mai 74Ks

(**See previous trip below in opposite direction. Note this is 2010 update to our previous trip 2006) Before Pai Junction, Hwy.#107 is 90% four lane. Only 5Ks through the mountains is 2-lanes. Into Chiang Mai after Maker 31K, (distances are now from this turn-off) left then right on narrow black top road. At 4.5Ks, left on 3011. Stay on west side of river till bridge marked Ban Kuanmung. At 10Ks, left over bridge then right on left bank. Stay right at 12Ks along the river. At 17Ks, under bridge to Mae Rim. At 24Ks, across a highway. At 26Ks left then right under a highway. At 31Ks, under Hwy.#11. Busier and narrow. At 35Ks, right across bridge. (Route is 4Ks further and 100% better) (Update 2012 – Its easy to get lost after crossing the river but basically you stay between the river and Hwy 1001, which is busy and narrow.) 2012 Update –

Chiang Mai to Wiang Pa Pao 100Ks

Out over Ping River on Hwy 118. Divided highway with a with a cycle lane. Flat to Dai Saket at 19Ks. Now hilly (some steep). 2-lanes at 24Ks. Tailwind. Fast traffic. 3-lanes, 2-lanes up and 1-lane down with no shoulder. A little harry. When level 2-lanes and a shoulder (better). At 40Ks, more of a shoulder. Generally, climb to 57Ks then down to 70Ks. Divided Hwy with wide shoulder which discontinues at times. Flat and fast with a tailwind. At 90Ks, Cabbages and Condoms Resort. Into Wiang Pa Pao at 100Ks. 2012 Update –

Wiang Pa Pao to Chiang Rai 85Ks

Hills. Fast traffic and a rough shoulder make this ugly riding through nice scenery. Tailwinds. At 15Ks, flattens out and a good shoulder. At 40Ks, curves down along the river. At 45Ks, up away from the river. At 52Ks, left on Hwy 2113, a great country road. Easy rolling. At 59Ks, straight into 1211. Almost flat, good scenery. Quieter than 118. Wider and busier into town at 85Ks.

Chiang Mai to Chiang Dao 74Ks

Update: 3/2019: Along the river 2-lanes less traffic as you go. At 17 Ks, over bridge on 1260. Hwy 107 at 20Ks, right.

(add 5Ks if you stay along river) Back out along river back to bridge at Mae Rim 17Ks. Straight on narrow quiet road, Highway 2072. On Sunday this ride is very quiet. North (head)winds. Stay left near river at 25Ks over bridge to other side. Then right along river. Stay near river. At 29Ks, another bridge. Straight. Finally forced to Highway 107 at 38Ks. K marker 31 on Highway 107. 4-lanes and busy to Pai junction. All Flat. Update 2019: After Mae Taeng, it is 4-lanes with shoulder. Then the road is 2-lanes with 1 meter shoulder and sometimes narrow along the river.. Less traffic. Some easy rolling hills then along river. Nice scenery. Last 25Ks into Chiang Dao along river. Sometimes narrow for short stretches with easy grades. There are some trucks. Valley widens to 4-lanes 8Ks before Chiang Dao, 79Ks.

Thailand 2007

Chiang Rai to Cabbage & Condoms Resort 93Ks

(11Ks south of Wiang Papao) Head west out of town then on Hwy 1211. City limits at 4Ks, 6-lanes then 2-lanes with1-meter shoulder. North wind (tail). Moderate traffic. Flat but with mountain views. Rolling hills and quieter. Good riding. At 24Ks, sharp left turn on 1211. Rather go straight on minor road (Hwy 2113) Twisty, hilly and beautiful. At 30Ks, T-junction at Hwy 118, right. 2-lanes with 2-meter shoulder. Rolling hills. O.K. scenery. At 45Ks, Mae Suai. Now, more flat with a rougher shoulder to 53Ks then good again. At 82Ks, Wiang Papao, then 4-lanes and flat. Nice scenery. No big trucks on Hwy 118. At 93Ks, Cabbage and Condoms resort.

Cabbages & Condoms Resort to Lampang 129Ks

South on Hwy 118 for 6Ks. 4-lanes flat thru highway businesses. Left on Hwy 120. 2-Lanes with 1 meter shoulder. Light traffic and some hills, 2Ks up and 5Ks down to junction Hwy 1035. At 21Ks, right.. Road under construction (2007), when done 2-lanes with a wide shoulder. North wind (tail) good scenery. Mild rolling hills. Old road is sometimes narrow and sometimes broken. Light traffic. Winds from south (surprise) head winds. At 67Ks, past turn to Jaeson National Park, go around Chae Hom at 76Ks. New Highway, 2-lanes with 2-meter shoulder. O.K. scenery. Moderate traffic. Hills. A gradual 4K climb to 102Ks then a long gradual descent to Lampang at 129Ks. Busier into town. 4-lanes then 6-lanes then narrow over bridge.

Lampang to Phrae 97Ks

3Ks to Hwy 11 at Hwy 1 right (for back road route out of Lampang see Phrae to Lampang March 2006) Hwy 11, 4-lanes divided hwy 2-meter shoulder. Moderate traffic on a Sunday (12-31-06). No trucks. Up gradually then moderately to 11 Ks (marker 8) down to 13Ks then 2-lanes with narrower shoulder and fast traffic. Long gradual hills. NW wind (tail). At 23Ks (Marker 20), turn for back road route from Lampang. Better scenery. At 28Ks, start climb. Mostly gradual. Top at 40Ks. Down to junction 1023. (Right 21Ks to Wang Chin, left 57Ks to Phrae). (To Phrae, see Phrae to Wang Chin, Feb. 2006)

Phrae to Uttaradit 83Ks

**Uttaradit to Phrae 83Ks (from Feb 2006 trip – reads backwards) Out on 1045. 4-lanes with shoulder, moderate traffic. Bridge over stream and RR tracks at 8Ks then left on 4006. (Alternative: In town over RR tracks then along river on city 1045 to T-junction at 9Ks, left. At 11Ks, just before the bridge, right on Hwy 4006.) At 18Ks, stay left of the RR tracks. At 19Ks, good gravel along RR tracks. At 20Ks, over wooden bridge. At 21Ks, T-junction with a cement road. Right. At 21Ks, under RR tracks to paved road, left (north). Some short hills. At 24Ks, right on paved road to Hwy 11, left at 26Ks. 2-lanes, major highway with traffic including trucks. 1 meter shoulder. Rolling up. Start 3.5K gradual climb to top at 35Ks. Good vista back. Down 3.5Ks then rolling down to 53Ks. Junction Hwy 101, right. 4-lanes with shoulder. Busy. At 55Ks, left on city 1001. At 59Ks, Den Chai then north on a cement unnumbered road through green rice fields. At 65Ks, right on 6019. We failed and ended up on101 7Ks before Phrae. We think it’s possible on back roads. We did a lot of circling around but good scenery.

Uttaradit to Phitsanulok 109Ks

Hwy 1040 2-lanes with shoulder. Then 1104 at 10Ks 2-lanes, older road 1 meter shoulder, flat, dull, North wind (tail). Light traffic. Welcome to the plains. At 56Ks, left on 1275. More like a country lane than a highway. Quiet. At 84Ks, Phrom Piram. Now busier and faster. At 92Ks, 4-lanes. At 95Ks, junction 1086, right. 2-lanes, no shoulder and busy. At least it’s a wide 2-lanes. At 101Ks, 4-lanes. At 103Ks, Hwy 12, Center at 109Ks.

Phitsanulok to New Sukhothai 80Ks**

There’s a better way out of Pitsanulok but with bad maps we ended up on Hwy 117 from Hwy 12 to junction sign posted for Bang Rakam at 12 Ks right. All on major highways with a safe shoulder. At 13Ks, junction 1065. Under construction, a major highway to Bang Rakam at 20Ks, old road 2-lanes with shoulder, busy. Broken old road. At 24Ks, junction 1293 to Sukothai (straight on 1065 to Kamphaeng Phet, 92Ks on a very bad old narrow busy road) 2-lanes with 1 meter shoulder, quiet. Cross winds, Green rice fields. Nice scenery, flat. At 33Ks, an older road to 41Ks then good again. At 78Ks, bear left. At 80Ks, junction Hwy 12, left to river bridge. **We were originally headed to Kamphaeng Phet but bad roads and traffic (trucks) made us bail out on a quiet road to Sukhothai. ** We ended up following the description given us per Ronnie ob Ban Thai Guest House (see below**)

New Sukothai to Old Sukothai 12Ks (one way)

From 2006 February description as day trip. This is a great ride. We have done it several times. Day trip – (New) Sukhothai to Old Sukhothai 28Ks roundtrip Designed by Ronnie of Ban Thai Guest House Out on Highway 12, 4 lanes with shoulder for 3.5Ks. Temple on right, turn before Temple and go behind it and cross a small bridge over the canal then left on cement narrow road along the canal. Stay on cement road with the canal on your left to Wat Chang Lom at 13Ks then left over bridge to Highway 12 at 13Ks then right for 1K to Park entrance. Ride around the ruins of Old Sukhothai.

Old Sukothai to Kamphaeng Phet 80Ks

Take Hwy 1272 south from Hwy 12. Older road for 15Ks then improved, very quiet. North (tail) wind. Fast riding. Mountain views to the right. At 21Ks, T-junction. Left on Hwy 1319. At 23Ks, junction Hwy 101. Right (south) 2-lanes with 1 meter shoulder. Tree lined older Hwy. Surpisingly light traffic same trucks. Some mountain views. At 47Ks, past Hwy 1065. Becomes slightly rolling, dull scenery. A little busier. At 75Ks, past junction 115. At 77Ks, park entrance on right In Kamphaeng Phet at 80Ks.

Kamphaeng Phet to Nakhon Sawan 126Ks

Out of town on east side of river to Hwy 1084. 2-leanes with a 2 meter shoulder. Light to moderate traffic but lots of sugar cane trucks. Flat and dull. Tailwind (NW) but it wafts around during the day. 65Ks to Woralaksabur. Hwy 1084 in a highway, not a country way. After Woralaksabur, shoulder becomes narrow, often overgrown and strewn with sugarcane. Take care. At 89Ks, junction 1073, right. At 91Ks, over bridge then straight on 1182. Better, quieter, fewer trucks, no cane trucks. Curves, pretty. 2-lanes, narrow shoulder. Busier toward town at 123Ks, 4-lanes. At 125Ks, junction with 117 right on a major highway to junction 117 and Hwy 1 at 126Ks.

Nakhon Sawan to Chai Nat 95Ks (Direct route only 55Ks)

Out of town on main road to “Big C” Store, turn right to T-junction at 4Ks, left to river road to end then right for 200 meters to Hwy 3005. Left at 7Ks around Cement Plant then left to river road, turn right. At 10Ks under River bridge. At 13Ks, back to 3005. Over bridge to other side. At 22Ks Krok Phra. At 27Ks, past bridge over river. At 31Ks, junction 3008 left. At 49Ks, over bridge to other side. Along river thru town bear right on dirt track then across walking bridge. Hwy (no #) right at 52Ks to junction at 59Ks right throu Wat then straight along river. At 70Ks, right over locks. At 75Ks, Manoron. Along river then into Hwy 3244. Straight. At 84Ks right along canal to river left on Hwy 1005. Into Chai Nat at 95Ks.

Chai Nat to Suphan Buri 112Ks

Hwy 340 south 4-lanes, divided highway with wide shoulder. Moderate fast traffic, trucks. At 20Ks, left on 3251. 2-lanes with 1-meter shoulder. Some trucks. At 23Ks, 3184, turn right. Straight narrow but ok. At 34Ks, back to 340, left. NE winds strong (tail). Flat. At 45Ks, right on 3350, over bridge then left on river road. 2-lanes, older bumpy and patched, no shoulder, very quiet. Thru the green rice fields. Sam Chuk at 61Ks. (From San Chuk we headed too far west along canal. Not recommended, better to stay along river) Various roads but stay west of river. Out of town along canal on unnumbered Hwy 2-lane with 1 meter shoulder. Quiet. At 72Ks, rougher along canal. At 92Ks, cross over Hwy straight to junction 321 at 97Ks, left. 15ks into city on 321, 6-lanes and busy. Option 2: Recommended: Chai Nat to U Thong 112Ks. Take canal route (described above) then right at junction 321 for 15Ks to U Thong where there are hotels (skip Suphan Buri) and it is the same distance 112Ks.

Suphan Buri to Kanchana Buri 91Ks

West over river then south to Hwy 357 to junction Hwy 321 at 10Ks (the better way) left (west). At 31Ks, U Thong. Hwy 321, 4-lanes with a 2-meter shoulder. Moderate traffic, dull. After U Thong, busier, lots of trucks. At 36Ks, Hwy 3342. (This road has 2-lanes with a 1-meter shoulder. Lots of double trucks so we stayed (reluctantly) on 321 with its wide shoulder. At 39Ks, right on Hwy 324, 2-lanes, 2-meter shoulder. At times 4-lanes. Flat. Moderate traffic. Some sugar cane trucks. Northeast (tail) wind, strong. Fast ride going this way at this time (January 2007)

Kanchanaburi to Ratchaburi 99Ks

Over new bridge to Hwy 3228 at 2Ks, right. 2-lanes with 1-meter shoulder. Light traffic. Nice views. At 5Ks, pass Hwy 3305. At 14Ks, over R.R. At 16Ks, left on Hwy 3209 (spur). At 20Ks, T-junction Hwy 3209, right. At 27ks, left on Rural Road 4002 to 42Ks, junction Hwy 3492, right. At 46Ks, junction with 3209, left. At 50Ks, right on Hwy 3357. All these roads are 2-lanes with a narrow shoulder. Light traffic. Some sugar cane trucks. Winds Northeast (cross usually). So so scenery. At 74Ks, right (south) on Hwy 3089. Tail winds here. Busier, more trucks. At 92Ks, left on 3087, 2-lanes with shoulder, straight in at 99Ks.

Ratchaburi to Phetchaburi 69Ks

South on west side of the R.R. tracks then at 2Ks cross over to the east of the R. R. tracks. Now on Hwy 3339 south. The road becomes quiet. At 7Ks, T-junction Hwy 3338, left then immediate right past Ruins Muang Khubua. North wind (tail). Flat. 2-lanes, narrow shoulder. At 11Ks, T-junction left to 13Ks, T-junction right (south) on Hwy 4008. At 21Ks, Pak Tho. At 22Ks right and then left after the R. R. tracks. At 24Ks, crossover Hwy 35 (small footpath). Straight south. At 35Ks, to Hwy 4, left. To avoid this, get left to small Hwy south. At 39Ks, T-junction left to R.R. track turn left (north) for ½ K then just follow road as it winds thru lots of canals and rivers. Its often gravel but O.K. At 52Ks, onto good straight road along a canal. At 59Ks, over train tracks. At this point it might be possible to head east to avoid the ride on Hwy 4. At 63Ks, Hwy 4, left. Into city center on busy Hwy 4 at 69Ks.

Phetchaburi to Hua Hin 74Ks

(Hwy 3177 to Ban Hat Chao Samran) (To Ban Puk Tian, Phra Rat Mur, Bangket) 2.5Ks south then left (east) on Hwy 3177. 4-lanes with 2-meter shoulder. At 6Ks, 2-lanes with 2-meter shoulder, busy and dull. North wind (tail, flat). At 17Ks, Hwy 4003, right. 2-lanes with 2-meter shoulder, light traffic. Dull but fast. The route of the failed resort. At 41Ks, t-junction, left. At 42Ks, left to Beach Road in Cha Am. At 49Ks, back to Hwy, left. 6-lanes, busy, 2-meter shoulder. This is Hwy 4. Into Beach at 72Ks.

Hua Hin to Prachuap Khirikhan 112Ks

Out along the coast then right to Hwy 4 at 8Ks, left. 2-lanes, busy, 2-meter shoulder, flat. At 16Ks, left on Hwy 1019 over R.R. then right. Pineapples. 2-lanes, narrow shoulder, some traffic. At 25Ks, T-junction left on Hwy 3168. To shore then right (south) along beaches, beautiful. Quiet 2-lanes, no shoulder. North wind (tail). At 36Ks out 100 meters to Hwy 4008. At 38Ks, jog right then left then west to Hwy 1020. Left at 40Ks. At 63Ks, left on Hwy 4020. At 74Ks, T-junction left on Hwy 4020 (a.k.a. Hwy 1020) At 85Ks, Hwy 4, left. At 96Ks, left on Hwy 1047, then 1st right. At 103Ks onto Hwy 1034 then along beach to town 112Ks

Prachuap Khirikham to Ban Crud 68Ks

Thru Military airport along coast and out at 5Ks. At 6Ks bear left. At 11K, gate right then left on Hwy 1041. At 13Ks cross R.R. and out to Hwy. 4 at 16Ks (We tried but failed to take dirt roads south). At 30Ks, road to Ban Huay Yang. (We tried to go south from Huay Yang. We were told we could go 15Ks but we could not find the way.) Slightly rolling. Northeast winds. At about 58Ks, Hwy 1029, left. Into Ban Crud at 68Ks.

Ban Crud to Suan Luang 34Ks

Along the beach, beautiful. At 5Ks, cross river and left. Along beach. At 9Ks left along beach. At 15Ks, left along beach. At 16Ks, fishing village. Follow Hwy past Prachuap Port at 19Ks. Now on Hwy 4056 (you can go around the promontory) At 20Ks, right over bridge, great ride. At 24Ks, right away from beach on Hwy 3169. At 27Ks, left on Hwy into Bang Saphan. Left to beach at 28Ks on Hwy 3374. Over a moderate hill then left at 33Ks. At 34Ks, the beach, Suan Luang.

Suan Luan to Chumphon 100Ks

Out to Hwy 3374, left (south) 2-lanes, small shoulder, slightly rolling. At 23Ks, straight onto Hwy 3411. Rubber plantations. So so scenery. Quiet. At 38Ks, Hwy 3411 heads west. Stay straight on Hwy 4015. Tail winds (north). At 42Ks, left at junction Hwy 3253. Now fluky winds. OK scenery. At 54Ks, Hwy 3253 goes right. Go straight on Hwy 4004. At 62Ks, left to beach. Good views. At 71Ks, left on Hwy 3201. Cross Hwy 3180 at 83Ks. Straight on “short cut”, Hwy 4022. At 87Ks, junction, left to rejoin Hwy 3180. Busier. In on Hwy 5056 along the RR tracks. Center at 100Ks.

Chumphon to Ranong 123Ks

Out on Hwy 327 to junction Hwy 4 & Hwy 41 at 8Ks. Straight on Hwy 4, 2-lanes, 2-meter shoulder, moderate traffic but plenty of tanker trucks. Nice scenery, Northeast winds but variable. Generally and gradually up to 36Ks then generally down. At 62Ks, Kraburi. Then older, narrower road for 10Ks. Hills. A moderate and scenic climb for 3Ks to 109Ks then down mostly to Ranong. At 116Ks, 4-lanes. In the city at 123Ks.

Ranong to Khuraburi 115Ks (our computers were stolen in Ranong)

2Ks to Hwy 4 at Hwy 614K marker, 4-lanes, 2-meter shoulder, rolling. At 623K marker, 2-lanes, 1-meter shoulder. Moderate traffic. At 672K marker, 1K climb then 1K descent. At 688K marker, hills. OK scenery. Moderate to light traffic (on a Sunday). At 695K marker it flattens out. Generally, northeast winds (tail) but they often shift around. At 700K marker, the road narrows (only a very narrow shoulder). Rolling into town at 727K marker. Khuraburi 115Ks.

Khuraburi to Khao Lak 84Ks

Hwy 4, newer road with 1.5-meter shoulder. Start at 727K marker. Good scenery, light traffic (No big trucks) fast moving, East winds (mostly tail), At 777K marker now or 50Ks from Khuraburi, junction Hwy 401. Hwy 4 now measured at 94Ks from entrance to Phuket. Ks are descending now. At 90Ks, 54Ks from Khuraburi is Takuapa. Urban sprawl for 10Ks. Hwy 4 is busy now. Rolling. Winds switch. Poor riding to Khao Lak at 60K marker. 84Ks from Khuraburi.

Khao Lak To Phangnga Pier 63Ks

Hwy 4 at 60K marker. Twisty, hilly and beautiful 5Ks then same old Hwy 4. Wide shoulder, traffic. At 45K marker, left on Hwy 4. At 42Ks, left on Hwy 4240 (well marked). Start at 0 Ks. (Ban Bukprai 15, Phangngo 35, Krabi 101) Rolling, narrow shoulder, light traffic, some trucks, east winds (head) but they switch around, nice scenery. At 15Ks, junction Hwy 4090, right. At 36K marker, narrow old 2-lanes, no shoulder. At 42Ks, new road with 1-meter shoulder, head winds. At 50Ks, junction Hwy 4. Right to Phangnga, 7Ks. (To Pier, 6Ks on Hwy 4 then left on Hwy 4144 for 3Ks)

Phangnga Pier to Krabi 100Ks**

Hwy 4144, 3Ks to Hwy 4, right 3Ks to Hwy 415. Left. 2-lanes, wide shoulder, very busy, trucks. Good scenery. At 16Ks, right unnumbered road that becomes Hwy 1002. (Ask for Krabi), Narrow 2-lanes. Varying shoulder. Sometimes no shoulder. Moderate but fast traffic. Some hills. Good scenery. East winds (generally). At 18Ks, thru the Karsts notch. At 19Ks, Hwy 4, right (south) at 146Ks marker. At 139K marker, right for 3Ks on Hwy 1010 to T-junction left. 1K to junction left on Hwy 4205 then right on Hwy 4011 after 1K. At 8Ks, T-junction right then many roads to Hwy 1003. At 13Ks, rolling, quiet and beautiful to Hwy 4033, left to Hwy 4034 right for 22Ks 2-lanes with a wide shoulder, busy. (Off Hwy 4034. left after 12Ks to right on Hwy 4202, narrow and no shoulder for 8Ks to Ao Nang.) **We tried many back roads. The best way to avoid Hwy 4 but also avoid too much wondering around is as follows: Hwy 415 to Hwy 1002 to Hwy 4 then off at Hwy 4205 then Hwy 4011 then find (ask for Krabi) Hwy 1003 to Hwy 4033 left to Hwy 4034 to Ao Nang or Krabi.

Krabi to Ko Lanta 84Ks

Hwy 411 for 4Ks to Hwy 4. Right at 108K marker, 4-lanes with shoulder. At 95Ks, 2-lanes with shoulder. Dull Scenery gently rolling, traffic, few trucks on Sunday. East wind (head). At 64K marker, Hwy 4206, right. 2-lanes. 1-meter shoulder. The ferry causes clumps of traffic otherwise light traffic. Mostly a tail wind here. Better scenery toward Lanta. 27Ks to ferry. 7Ks to next ferry. One small hill then flat.

Ko Lanta to Trang 115Ks

36Ks back to Hwy 4 (see previous day) at 64K marker, right (south). Gently rolling. Moderate traffic. Some trucks. At 38Ks marker, Hwy 4046. At 53K marker, right (south). Excellent highway, 2-meter shoulder. So so scenery. Gusty, strong northeast winds. So a tail wind for awhile. This is a short cut so some traffic. Mostly flat. At 28K marker, a 1K moderate climb. New heading east into the wind. Mildly rolling. The traffic increases as you approach Trang. 4-lanes into town.

Trang to Pak Bara 114Ks

2Ks to Hwy 404. South, 4-lanes and wide shoulder, urban. Start at 0 Ks (Satun 150Ks) Divided Hwy, light traffic, 4-lanes. Some mild hills. At 22Ks, Hwy 4125. Left. A good country road. Rubber plantations, Northeast wind (head) here for 14Ks then turn down wind. Some traffic. This route adds only 3Ks. At 27Ks, T-junction Hwy 416, left. At 53K marker, start. At 44Ks, into a scenic karsts area, a few easy climbs. Into Thung Wa at 26Ks. Now south, fluky winds, road narrows, no shoulder, light but fast traffic, nice karsts scenery. Last 4Ks, 4-lanes into Langu, 0 Ks. Straight on 4-lanes with wide shoulder to Pak Bara 10Ks.

Pak Bara to Satun 60Ks

10Ks back to Langu. Right on Hwy 416 at 37K marker. 2-lanes, narrow shoulder, moderate traffic, some trucks. Northeast winds (head). Rolling and dull. At 24Ks, new 4-lanes. Flat featureless. Really boring. Wide shoulder. Some rolling hills then better scenery before Cha Lung. Right on Hwy 406. Fast 4-lane with wide shoulder, busy. Downwind.

Satun to Thammalang (boat to Malaysia) 10Ks

Hwy 406 to Hwy 4183 (follow signs). 2-lanes. Wide shoulder. Ferry to Lang Kawi, Malaysia

Thailand 2006

Phitsanulok to Sukhothai 58Ks (See alternate quieter and more scenic route below**)

On Highway 12 (We added 12Ks bys going right (north) on minor roads). Out on Hwy 12 (major Highway) 6-lanes with a shoulder/bike lane. At 8Ks, cross Hwy 12 by pass road. Straight, flat, NW (head) light winds. Highway busier. Then 4-lanes with shoulder through rice fields. New Highway. In 2006 under, construction after 28Ks. We went right at 33Ks to escape. It will soon be finished. **Phitsanulok to Sukhothai Per Ronnie of Ban Thai Guest House in New Sukhothai to avoid Highway 12. Estimated 10-15Ks farther. Highway 1065 to Bang Rakam then Highway 1293 to Sukhothai. Day trip – (New) Sukhothai to Old Sukhothai 28Ks roundtrip Designed by Ronnie of Ban Thai Guest House Out on Highway 12, 4 lanes with shoulder for 3.5Ks. Temple on right, turn before Temple and go behind it and cross a small bridge over the canal then left on cement narrow road along the canal. Stay on cement road with the canal on your left to Wat Chang Lom at 13Ks then left over bridge to Highway 12 at 13Ks then right for 1K to Park entrance. Ride around the ruins of Old Sukhothai.

Sukhothai to Tak 84Ks (via Highway 12 direct 80Ks)

Out on Highway 12 to temple at 3.5Ks turn right. Follow route above to Old Sukhothai. At 12 ks, back to Highway 12, right. At 13Ks. Straight (off of Highway 12 into Park. (entrance fee required). At 14Ks, straight on minor road past minor wats to Highway 12 at 19Ks (these routes add 4Ks) left. 2-lanes with shoulder. Past by-pass at 23Ks. Highway 12 under construction to Ban Dan Lan Hoi. Mostly flat. East wind (tail). Scenery nothing special. Less traffic as you go, some trucks. Mild hills, then at 64Ks its flat or gradually down to Tak. At 80Ks, 4-lanes with shoulder to Tak 84Ks.

Tak to Mae Ramat 114Ks **(see note below)

Over bridge then right along river on Highway 1107. Slightly broken road at first. Nice up along river, quiet road. Mild rolling hills, left turn on 1107 or straight (left on 1107 meet 1175 in 10ks, 1K shorter). Straight. Past Ban Tak to junction 1175 at 27Ks, left. East winds (tail). At 32Ks, junction with other Highway 1107 (short cut) straight. Older but good Highway. Moderate Hills but generally climbing. Quiet with nice scenery. At 46Ks, start steep climb to 58Ks (937meters). Then on mostly moderate grades down with a few short climbs and a few short steep downs. Broken road. At 80Ks, climb for 6 steep Ks then rolling hills more down then up. At 101Ks, steep down for 4Ks. Better road then easier grades. At 112Ks, Highway 105 right 2Ks to Mae Ramat.

Mae Ramat to Mae Sot 37Ks

(See next description: Mae Sot to Tha Song Yang in reverse) **Yes, this route is prettier and you get some glimpses of the Hill tribes villages but it is much longer (almost double) and way harder for climbing to Mae Sot. Its steeper and there are two passes not one and before the climb you are going up and down. There are no guesthouses between Tak and Mae Sot either way. The short direct way from Tak to Mae Sot is simply up then down, so easier.

Mae Sot to Tha Song Yang 84Ks

1K to Highway 105. 4-lanes with shoulder to 6Ks then 2-lanes with shoulder. Mild rolling hills, light but fast traffic. So-so scenery. No wind in the morning. At 33Ks, 4-lanes. At 35Ks, Mae Ramat then 2-lanes with a narrow shoulder. At 37Ks, Highway 1175 (To Ban Tak). Straight on Highway 105. Hillier and Prettier. At 57Ks, Karen Refugee Camp to 61Ks. Before Tha Song Yang, at 87Ks, milder hills left into town for food (none on the Highway) then thru town back to highway (only 500 meters further). There are now two guesthouses just past the town. Both places are pretty good.

Tha Song Yang to Ban Tha Song Yang then to Kham Papa (dilapidated resort) 63Ks

Hills but usually easy grades. Then a short steep descent to the river at 33Ks. Quiet then inland again. Easy grades into Mae Salit. (There is a basic guesthouse on the river with pretty views here but all the restaurants close at 5:00PM. It is 116Ks from Mae Sot.) Good road and easy grades. Soft winds and light traffic. Very pretty ride along the river with views of Karsts to Ban Tha Song Yang but there is no place to stay here so another 7Ks up an old narrow road (road improvements in process) and steep climb to Kham Papa, a dilapidated resort with basic bungalows. No food but we arranged with the owners to bring some in.

Kham PaPa to Mae Sariang 91Ks

After 1K, start steep climb for 8Ks. Older, rougher 2-lanes, no shoulder. No morning fog here. Up and down tough rolling hills. Almost no traffic. At 32Ks, more down than up. Hills continue but they’re a less severe. Hill tribes, working elephants. Some parts of the road have been improved. Good mountain views. At 39Ks, start down, some moderate, some steep to river at 48Ks. Shops. Cross river and climb. A little less severe to 54Ks. The Hills continue down and up to 59Ks. The road is better at times. Down to 61Ks into a wide river valley. Rolling hills up river. Pretty and verdant. From 72Ks, easy grades. Gentle head wind. Still light traffic. Junction at 89Ks, left 2Ks to Mae Saring 91Ks.

Mae Sariang to Khun Yuam 99Ks

2Ks back to Highway 108, left (north) climb to 10Ks then moderate rolling hills generally down. Through a teak forest. Sometimes the road is broken. Light traffic. Back down to the river valley at 23Ks. Then rolling hills in valley. Good scenery. At 32Ks, Mae La Noi then climb to 35Ks. Then easy rolling hills. Winds directionless. At 53Ks, zigzag climb to 56Ks then down to 61Ks. Then gradually up picturesque narrow serpentine valley to 70Ks. Only the last 1K is steeper. Down to 76Ks then 2Ks up and over to another river. Rolling hills, up stream, not as pretty. At 86Ks, a 1K steep climb then gradually up to 91Ks then down to edge of town but up 2Ks to town 99Ks.

Khun Yuam to Mae Hong Son 67Ks

2Ks down then gradual then an 8K descend to 12Ks then climb moderate grades then gradually up a valley on rolling hills through a forest. Beautiful. Good road. Light traffic. Top at 20Ks then moderate grades down to 30Ks, then rolling hills mostly down. Light north winds (head). At 49Ks, steep and beautiful down to valley at 53Ks then easy rolling hills all the way to Mae Hong Son (with a 2K gradual descent). 4-lanes into town, traffic. 67Ks.

Mae Hong Son to Soppong 67Ks

Highway 1095, 2-lanes, no shoulder, moderate traffic at first. Land of the morning fog. Easy rolling hills to 10Ks then moderate climbing. Steep down for 2Ks to Fish Cave at 17Ks. At 21Ks, serious hills begin. At 38Ks stores and restaurants. Great views, good road, moderate traffic (more traffic than expected because there was the Tuesday market day in Soppong). At 48Ks, fantastic vistas till 52Ks. Beautiful and tough ride. At 61Ks, the valley. Gentle hills into Soppong 67Ks.

Soppong to Pai 42Ks

Update 3/2019: All good road. No shoulder. Light traffic at 35Ks, wide shoulder into Pai.

Gradual climb up river for 8Ks, beautiful. Waited till 10AM for fog to clear. It’s almost all moderate climbing, zigzag up mountain. Constant vistas. From 14Ks to the top at 18Ks, road improvement in 2006. Only a few short steep parts. Negligible winds, light traffic. Construction (repairs after landslide of August 2005) continues. Rough road. Descend. Steeper down to 27Ks. Less dramatic vistas. New road done at 27Ks. Still steeper to 30Ks then gradual along river. Nice scenery. Last 8Ks up and down hills into Pai. 42Ks.

Pai to top of Pass 29ks

Update 3/2019: Good Road, light traffic.

Out on Highway 1095. Traffic in town. Older, rough, patched 2-lane road. No shoulder, quiet. Moderate rolling hills. No morning fog.. WWII bridge at 10Ks and 300 meters further to junction for back road into Pai.** Easy grades then at 13Ks start gradual climb. At 15Ks, steep and zigzag to 20ks then gradual or moderate to the top at 29Ks. Some good views back to Pai valley. A Police box at top and there’s a store. **For a more interesting route, cross the Pai River bridge. It’s shorter on this narrow concrete road by 2Ks but hillier. It’s quiet. Better scenery and more interesting. Pass 3 elephant camps. You ride on the other side of the river. Join Highway 1095 at 8Ks. Left to the pass.

Top of Pass to Chiang Mai 105Ks

Update 3/2019: Good road. Light traffic. Faster going north to take turn off #107 to junction. We missed it and road 1095 to the junction.

Better road on this side, light traffic. Gradual mostly, some moderate descent. Good views. Twists & turns to 14Ks then up 2 gradual Ks then gradual or moderate down a nice twisty road. Good views to 25Ks. Very gradual up to 33Ks then rolling hills. At 41Ks (30Ks from Mae Taeng) the Mushroom Farm. Food and lodging. At 42Ks, start down. Steep and curvy to 45Ks, then gradual. Busier road. One short steep hill up & down to 49Ks. Rolling hills down to 55Ks then gradual to 58Ks (11Ks before Junction with Hwy 107) right on Highway 3009. Narrow, new 2-lane road, no shoulder, quiet. Gradual hills, nice scenery, great to 82Ks. Right on Highway 107 to 85Ks. Left to bridge at 87Ks double back toward river then left (south) at 88Ks, 2-lane, quiet along river. At 94Ks, cross outer ring road. At 97Ks swing right under inner ring road. Follow river road. At 102Ks, under Highway 11. Busier into Chiang Mai. At 105Ks over any river bridge into city.

Chiang Mai to Chiang Dao 74Ks

Update: 3/2019. Along the river 2-lanes, less traffic as you go. At 17Ks, over bridge on 1260. Hwy 107 at 20Ks, right.

(add 5Ks if you stay along river) Back out along river back to bridge at Mae Rim 17Ks. Straight on narrow quiet road, Highway 2072. On Sunday this ride is very quiet. North (head)winds. Stay left near river at 25Ks over bridge to other side. Then right along river. Stay near river. At 29Ks, another bridge. Straight. Finally forced to Highway 107 at 38Ks. K marker 31 on Highway 107. 4-lanes and busy to Pai junction. All Flat. Update: 3/2019 After Mae Taeng, 4-lanes with shoulder. Then 2-lanes and sometimes narrow along the river. 2-lanes with 1 meter shoulder. Less traffic. Some easy rolling hills then along river. Nice scenery. Last 25Ks into Chiang Dao along river. Sometimes narrow for short stretches with easy grades. There are some trucks. Valley widens to 4-lanes for the last 8Ks before Chiang Dao, 79Ks.

Chiang Dao to Fang 80Ks

Update: 3/2019: Still small or no shoulder rhrough mountains. The traffic bunches up behind the trucks. A little hairy. Otherwise the same.

North on Highway 107, 2-lanes with a very small shoulder. Good views and long gradual hills. More up than down. Winds today from the south (tail), some clouds. Moderate, fast traffic with some big trucks which is the only negative. Beautiful karst mountains. Down 2Ks to stream at 31Ks. Then gradual climb to 36Ks. Then moderately down to river at 43Ks. Now a new highway with a wide shoulder into a wide valley. Very gradually down. One long village. Nothing special. Busy Highway. Fang 80Ks.

Fang to Tha Ton 36Ks (backway)

Hwy 107 to stoplight then right on Hwy 6039 over bridge. Rural road with farm traffic that gets lighter. Good narrow road. At 23Ks, Hwy 6039 swings right. At 30Ks, over a hill. You can see the new bridge, left to bridge on a dirt road then a bit more to Hwy 1089 at the 29K marker. Left 5 Ks back to Tha Ton 36Ks. Hwy 6039 continues paved to Mae Salak. The boat to Chiang Rai can pick you up there but make arrangements in Thaton before. After Mae Salak Hwy 6039 deteriorates to unrideable (I’m told in 2006) Alternative on main road.

Fang to Tha Ton 24Ks on Hwy 1089

Good 2-lane Hwy with a wide shoulder. 14Ks to Mae Ai then to Tha Ton 24Ks of mild hills and good views. Light to moderate traffic. (This is the preferred route and it’s shorter).

Tha Ton to Chiang Rai 89Ks

Update3/2019: To Mae Salak, go 5Ks on 107 then right over bridge to 3023 left. 1K climb, beautiful quiet road. A little rough. Mae Salak aat 15Ks. No boat down river so back to 107 on 3037 over bridge. 5 very hilly K’s to 107. Right. 20Ks total. Now by Hwy 1084 & 107 to Tha Ton 10Ks, so this side trip makes the route longer to Chiang Rai.

Chiang Rai to Chiang Saen 67Ks

Update 3/2019: Never knew the Hwy#. But near the river. Good road. Light traffic. Turn left (north) at 16Ks, across from the new bridge. Curvey but good road to 1209. Now busier with dump trucks! to 4004, good road.

Chiang Saen to Chiang Khong 69Ks

Update 3/2019: Chiang Khong to Bridge to Laos. The 4th bridge from Thailand to Laos is open. Hwy 1020, 4-lanes urban to 7Ks. Left on 1356 to Passport Control at 10Ks. Bus across the bridge (bikes too).

Update 3/2019: Hwy 1129 to Hwy 1290. Same road but now 4-lanes divided highway. Wide shoulder. Moderate traffic. Hwy 4007, excellent ride. Last 13Ks on 1290, very steep hills.

Hwy 1129 along river. 2-lanes with a small shoulder, light traffic, variable and light winds. Only occasional views of the river. To 17Ks, then straight onto Hwy 4007 along the river. Flat. Through farm fields, very quiet to 28Ks, junction. Left on 4007. After 40Ks, beautiful River vistas on rolling hills to 52Ks. Junction at 56Ks, left on 1290. (The 4007 loop adds 14Ks to trip) A steep 1K climb to a great vista and 1K steep down with great river vistas. Then short moderate and steep hills all the way to town 69Ks.

Chiang Saen to Mae Sai 41Ks

Up Hwy 1290 along river for 9Ks to Golden Triangle (Tourist Trap Extraordinaire) Moderate traffic. Steep 1K up and down then mostly flat to 22Ks. Right on 1041. Flat, quiet, rice and corn, Myanmar mountains in the distance. Into town, continue west until the main road at 41Ks.

Mae Sai to Chiang Rai 90Ks

(straight on Hwy 1 is 69Ks) South on main road (Hwy 1) to Hwy 1290, left. At 12Ks, right on Hwy 1009. At 22ks, downtown Ban Dai. Turn off Hwy 1009 at Y and bear left onto minor cement road then straight over bridge. Follow the more main road which curves around a lot to 1016 at 31Ks. All is flat and quiet. Then right on Hwy 1016. Busy. At 33Ks, left on Hwy 1098. Quiet with a few minor hills. At 43Ks, past a huge Chinese wat. Dull scenery, but lots of fruit. At 44Ks, right on Hwy 1209 (see previous description in reverse), just after K marker 8 on Hwy 3034. At 66Ks, left. At 74Ks, T-Junction right along river. At 85Ks, airport entrance. Left on 5023 over river on quieter road then across boulevard median for right turn along river across Hwy 1, into town. 90Ks.

Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong 103Ks

Out on 1232 for 5Ks then left on 4013. Flat along river and green rice fields. Quiet. At 22Ks, T-junction left on 1173. 2-lanes with wide shoulder. Flat then mild hills. Light Traffic. Mountains on right. OK scenery. At 49Ks, T-junction right on 1098. Gradual climb to 59Ks then 1K moderate descent then gradual to flat to T-junction. Left on Hwy 1174. Narrow 2-lanes and rough pavement. Some fast traffic. Mostly flat but some minor hills. Fickle winds. Nothing special for scenery. At 96Ks, T-junction Hwy 1020, left. Busy road, sometimes no shoulder. Into town 4 lanes 103Ks.

Chiang Khong to Wiang Kaen 40Ks (We rode out and back)

Hwy 1020 to Hwy 1155 left. Then rolling hills. Great ride along Mekong river. From Chiang Khong, there is a bridge across the Mae Ing river which shortens the trip. After Wiang Kaen (There is a basic guest house) there is reported to be a “very big mountain” on the way to Thoeng, 110Ks. Hwy 1155 is a good road and has some traffic. Returning from Wiang Kaen, at K Marker 83, right at 16Ks then left at 17Ks over bridge at 18Ks then 1K of dirt road. At 20Ks, back to tarmac. To Hwy 1020 at 23Ks (saves 9Ks) to junction 1020 and 1174.

Chiang Khong to Theong 75Ks

From junction 1020 and 1174 1) on Hwy 1020 its 68Ks to Thoeng 2) on Hwy 1174, its 78Ks to Thoeng 3)on Hwy 1020 and 1155 its 110Ks to Theong Hwy 1020 to junction Hwy 1174, 6Ks. Straight on Hwy 1020. At 15Ks, junction 1155. Straight. Good 2-lane road. No shoulder. Light traffic but fast moving. Some big trucks. Easy rolling hills. OK scenery but marred by electrical lines. Winds light and variable early then gusty from the south (head). After 55Ks, more traffic, fast and often big. Road still narrow. Poor riding.

Thoeng to Chiang Kham 29Ks

6Ks on Hwy 1021. A small shoulder, moderate but fast traffic and trucks. At 6Ks junction 1155 (we rode up 20Ks and back , see report) All flat. Last 6Ks into town on 2-lanes with wide shoulder. (We also rode other roads east of 1021). Hwy 1155 north (out and back) Beautiful and easy rolling up a river valley. Very pretty. Light traffic. Still some trucks. Good road. Strong south winds. Junction 1093 at 17Ks. (1093 starts as dirt road but I know that at junction with 1021 it’s paved). Straight on 1155 which now has steeper hills. Its reported that 1155 is paved all the way. Looks like a good route for the stronger rider. Still heard about the “big mountain.”

Thoeng to Chiang Kham (Longer)

Back roads on other side of the river to the west.

Chiang Kham to Chiang Muan 92Ks

Out on 1148. 2-lanes, no shoulder, flat. Moderate traffic, some trucks. At 8Ks junction 1179, bear right (sign for Nan to left for minor mountainous route) 2-lanes with a 1 meter shoulder. Less traffic and long gradual rolling hills. At 24Ks, down into river valley. Quiet, sparse population, gusty south wind (head). A few hills but down valley to Junction 1092 at 39Ks. 2-lanes with 1 meter shoulder (better road). Continue down valley. A steep short hill to Junction 1091. Left into Pong at 52Ks. Main Street back to Hwy 1091 at 56Ks, left. Now a narrow shoulder. At 65Ks, choppy hills to73Ks then flattens out to Chiang Maun. Junction, left at 90Ks to Chiang Muan 92Ks.

Chiang Muan to Nan 70Ks

2Ks back to junction then Hwy 1091. AM smoke & haze obscure scenery. 2-lanes with a 1 meter shoulder, quiet. Climb moderately to 10Ks then steeper to 14Ks (the top) Stair step down to valley at 23Ks. New 4-lane road for 2Ks then 2-lanes and shoulder again, Up and down to 29Ks then a steep 2Ks and 1 gradual K to 32Ks. More hills. At 36Ks, down but more steep hills. At 46Ks, it mellows out then a 3K moderate descent. Easy grades mostly down. At 62Ks, 4-lanes with wide shoulder and light traffic into town at 70Ks.

Nan to Tha Wang Pha 45Ks

(We did this as a day trip out and back to Nan) Hwy 1080 north up valley. 2-lanes with a one meter shoulder. Moderate traffic. Nice scenery. Rolling hills to the bridge over the river. Option 1: continue on Hwy 1080 which flattens to Tha Wang Pha 45Ks. Option 2: Just before the bridge at 31Ks, left on Hwy 4007. Hillier, narrower, quieter and better views. At 43Ks, right across bridge into Tha Wang Pha 45Ks (our recommendation).

Nan to Wiang Sa 33Ks

(If you plan to ride to Phrae in a day, the back road option takes too much time) (On Hwy 101, 26Ks. Busy but a wide shoulder.) The back road option goes over the bridge on Hwy 1168. At 1K, right on Hwy 4020. Flat but curves. At 8Ks, 4020 turns left. Go straight on minor road (short cut) back to 4020 at 9Ks. Right. Through villages and farm fields. At 19Ks, off 4020 on minor road to the right. At 21Ks, along the river. At 23Ks, right over the river, then left along river. At 24Ks, T-junction left. At 25Ks, junction Hwy 101 to 29Ks then bear left off 101 into Wiang Sa at 33Ks. (slow, a little complicated but very nice ride)

Wiang Sa to Phrae 108Ks (93Ks direct on Hwy 101)

(In Wiang Sa, a basic guest house) 1K to Hwy 101. 2-lanes with 1 meter shoulder. Light to moderate traffic, some trucks rolling hills. At 15Ks, the Paradise Resort (nice but expensive). Thru a forest. So So scenery. Winds light. Hwy 101, 2-lanes, 1 meter shoulder moderate traffic (fast moving) well engineered road through forested hills. Easy rolling hills. Now better scenery but smoke obscured views in March. At 31Ks, start of moderate, longer hills then a gradual descent to 45Ks. Left on Hwy 1216 (straight on Hwy 101 is 48Ks to Phrae) quiet, rolling to Junction 1217 at 50Ks. Right. Good road very quiet but becomes older and more broken. Easy grades but occasional hills then steep hills from 60Ks. At 67Ks, junction 1342, right. Steep hills continue to 76Ks. Top out. Great vistas but obscured by the smoky haze. Generally a gradual descent to 83Ks. At 85Ks, T-junction at Hwy 1134. At 95Ks, left on Hwy 4018. Quiet. At 102Ks, T-junction. Right in 1101. At 105Ks, left at cross road. (small) to T-junction right. Straight under highway into town at 108Ks.

Phrae to Wang Chin 78Ks

Over bridge from circle. At 3Ks, straight onto tar road. At 5Ks, T-junction, left. At 6Ks, right on 1023. At 7Ks, start up a valley. 2 wide lanes with a shoulder. New, well engineered highway but more traffic (moderate). No big trucks or busses but fast small vehicles. Rolling hills up. Top at 16Ks. Through forest. Rolling down to river in valley at 26Ks. Fluky winds. Very gradual ups and downs. Easy riding. Into Long at 42Ks on city 1023. At end of town at 43Ks, right back out to 1023 at 48Ks, left. Easy grades to junction Hwy 11 at 57Ks, straight. Very nice scenery. Easy grades. Just a few mild hills. Nice riding. Into town 78Ks

Wang Chin to Sawankhalok 98Ks

(With tour of SiSatchanalai) Hwy 1125 along the river. Easy rolling hills or flat. Quiet. Nice scenery. Then dull through logging area. At 26Ks, right on 3041. At 30Ks, bridge to no where, right. Small back road. Some short choppy hills. At 35Ks, right at T junction. Hwy 1177. Older highway, gentle grades. Dull scenery. Light traffic but occasional big trucks. At 55Ks, Hwy 101, right. 2-lanes, 1 meter shoulder surprisingly little traffic to SiSatchanalai (the town), dull scenery. Mostly flat. Then much more traffic. At 78Ks, left 1201 to Historical Park. Around and out to Hwy 1201 at 82Ks. Flat, boring. At 96Ks, left 200 meters before the main junction on a small road that crosses a bridge into Sawankhalok, 98Ks.

Sawankhalok to Uttaradit 55Ks

Head east to ring road (101) left (north) to Hwy 1180, right (east) at 5Ks to Hwy 4007 left at 10Ks. Quiet, all flat and boring. Sugar cane fields. At 30Ks, left on Hwy 1180. 2-lanes with shoulder, some traffic. Sugar cane trucks. At 32Ks, T-junction Hwy 1196, right. At 35Ks, Hwy 1046, left. Rice fields. Light traffic. No trucks. At 50Ks, T-junction, Hwy 102, right on 4-lane road into Uttaradit, 55Ks.

Uttaradit to Phrae 83Ks

Out on 1045. 4-lanes with shoulder, moderate traffic. Bridge over stream and RR tracks at 8Ks then left on 4006. (Alternative: In town over RR tracks then along river on city 1045 to T-junction at 9Ks, left. At 11Ks, just before the bridge, right on Hwy 4006.) At 18Ks, stay left of the RR tracks. At 19Ks, good gravel along RR tracks. At 20Ks, over wooden bridge. At 21Ks, T-junction with a cement road. Right. At 21Ks, under RR tracks to paved road, left (north). Some short hills. At 24Ks, right on paved road to Hwy 11, left at 26Ks. 2-lanes, major highway with traffic including trucks. 1 meter shoulder. Rolling up. Start 3.5K gradual climb to top at 35Ks. Good vista back. Down 3.5Ks then rolling down to 53Ks. Junction Hwy 101, right. 4-lanes with shoulder. Busy. At 55Ks, left on city 1001. At 59Ks, Den Chai then north on a cement unnumbered road through green rice fields. At 65Ks, right on 6019. We failed and ended up on101 7Ks before Phrae. We think it’s possible on back roads. We did a lot of circling around but good scenery.

Phrae to Lampang 104Ks

Phrae to junction 1023 and Hwy 11 at 57Ks (see previous description Phrae to Wang Chin for route). From junction on Hwy 11 climb for 7Ks, moderate. Top at 64Ks. Hwy 11 has traffic but a wide shoulder. Nice scenery but no vistas. Down gradually for 14Ks to 78Ks. At 80Ks, left on Hwy 1036. 2-lanes with shoulder, quieter. Becomes 1037. Rolling, nothing special, easy grades. At 96Ks, 4-lanes. Center at 104Ks.

Lampang day ride 55Ks

Over bridge (river) then to Hwy 1035. 4-lanes with a shoulder. Traffic. Past Hwy 1157 east and over bridge (different river) then right north on minor roads. 2-lanes, no shoulder, little traffic. There are some bridges back over to Hwy 1157. Then left (north). Rolling hills, some small traffic to Hwy 1329, east. 2-lanes, quiet and gradual. Left then descent. OK scenery. To Hwy 1035, right (south). 4-lanes then 6-lanes till town then 2-lanes into the city and across the river to the center.

Lampang to Chae Son National Park 74Ks

(Bungalows at the water fall) Over bridge to Hwy 1039, left at 3Ks. 4-lanes, busy, shoulder. Right (north) on a random road at 4Ks. Eventually came to Hwy 1329. Then junction 1157 at 18Ks (not a recommended route, the garbage dump) North on Hwy 1157. 2-lanes with a narrow shoulder. Some traffic. Easy rolling hills. Quieter and better scenery as you go. Strong South (tail) winds. (Alternative: minor road on the other side of river. There are bridges.) At 63Ks, junction 1287, right. At 65Ks, left on 1252. Hillier, good views. At 69Ks village with a Home stay. At 72Ks, left on road to National Park. At National Park 74Ks.

Chae Son National Park to Phayao 120Ks

Back to 1287, 11Ks, left. Some hills then flattens out to junction Hwy 1035, left (north). All quiet. Nice scenery. 2-lanes with a small shoulder. More traffic including some trucks but still light. Easy grades. Occasional hills. At 39Ks, start of older narrow road with no shoulder but the traffic is light. Good views. Easy grades. At 44Ks, back to good road. At 54Ks, back to old and narrow road. Junction Hwy 102 at 63Ks. (Reported to be a Guest House on Hwy 102 to the left about 10 or 15Ks, near the police box). Right. Hills then 8K moderate climb to 88Ks (Hwy marker 21) Great mountain scenery. Light traffic. At 89Ks, a view point. Even with the smoke it’s a great vista. Great downhill, levels off at 100Ks. At 104Ks (K marker 4), left. Then keep right. At 108Ks, keep right on unnumbered road. Hwy 1 at 110Ks, left. Major Highway with wide shoulder/bike path. Very busy. Flat. South (tail wind). At 117Ks, turn left into town at 120Ks.

Phayao to Phan 87Ks

Across Hwy 1 onto HWY 1202 at 1K. Busy road with fast traffic with narrow shoulder. Urban sprawl. Poor riding for 14Ks then very good. Flat and quiet. At 47Ks, PaDaet. Now on 1126. Good scenery. Junction 1128 (to Chaing Rai). Left to stay on 1126. Flat till 59Ks. Moderate climb for 1K then down. At 64Ks, left on Hwy 4045 (3118). At 73Ks, junction, paved road, right. T-junction at 77Ks, left (west) on Hwy 1030. Lots of curves but flat. At 86Ks cross Hwy 1. Town at 87Ks.

Phan to Chiang Rai 68Ks

To Hwy 1126 at Hwy 1, 3Ks. Then 1126 (busy) to Hwy 1190 at 8Ks, left (north), easy grades. At 22Ks, we went straight as 1126 turns right (Not recommended) At 25Ks, gravel road. Choppy hills, good scenery. At 30Ks, pavement. At 32Ks, Hwy 1020 (2-lanes, narrow shoulder and busy), left. At 37Ks, wider shoulder. At 38Ks, stop-light at Hwy 1306. Straight. At 40Ks, right on 4016 through a chain of lakes. At 49Ks, junction 1152, left then right toward Waing Chai on 1299. In Wiang Chai, onto 1173 at 54Ks then onto 1232, right. Traffic increases. Airport road at 65Ks, busy. At 67Ks, cross Hwy 1. Straight into town, 68Ks. (Alternative: At 49Ks, left on 1152. At 54Ks, right on 1173. At 57Ks, left on 1233. Narrower. Shoulder for 1K before Hwy 1 at 63Ks. Town at 65Ks).

Roads into Chiang Rai from the east.

1232 is quieter but is narrow into the city. 1233 is a wide highway with a good 2 meter shoulder. More traffic. Fast and easy. Connects to 1173 to Wiang Chai or 1173 south to 1152 and 1020. Last K into Chaing Rai is narrow. (1173 is wide, quiet with a 2 meter shoulder) (1152 is wide with moderate traffic and a 1.5 meter shoulder. 1020 is wide highway, constant traffic with a 2.5 meter shoulder for 15Ks. Then only a narrow shoulder and narrower road. Not good.

Road Stories

Comparing Myanmar and Thailand 2006

We flew to Phitsanulok Thailand from Yangon Burma on Thai air on January 23. 2006. Unlike other airlines we did not need a bike box, or did not have to remove the peddles or turn the handlebars. Just ride up to the counter and they put the bikes on the plane with a smile. We needed Thai money – ATM at the airport. In Myanmar/Burma -no ATM. We never set foot in a bank but changed “perfect” Hundred Dollar bills in dark allies. A cash only economy in Myanmar while in Thailand there is a big choice of ATMs in every town. After bumping along the Burmese roads, the Thai roads seem like silk with doublewide shoulders for bikes and motor cycles. The vehicles are mostly spiffy double-cab trucks and new busses. In Thailand, even the police are nice. One day we climbed all morning. The highway skirts the small towns so we stopped at a police checkpoint to ask where we could find lunch. The Thai’s are first world with one exception: very few outside of Bangkok or the very touristy areas speak any English. We mime to the cop “eat”. He runs inside and comes back with bottles of cold water, and then he jumps on his motor cycle and waves for us to follow. He turns into the town and a steep down hill, then level and another steep down. Before the second steep down we yell, “No, No, Not down!” and stop following. We stop at a store. The cop returns. He comes in and starts pacing. He is trying to figure out how to explain the situation to us. Then he pulls out a chair, motions for Sally to sit, and then he goes to his motor cycle and pats the back seat for Peter to come. He drives Peter to the restaurant and then drives past to show him that the road returns to the highway with a small climb. What a change from the forbidding police state in Burma. In all restaurants in Thailand, even the simple open-air restaurants we find tasty, fresh and clean food. We enjoy ice to cool our soda. The ice would have put us on the Lomitol Express in Burma, if we could find it. The Thai government is a democracy run by a Prime Minister who’s party’s slogan is “Thailand for Thais”. There is a king who is a descent man is revered by all. His photo is on billboards in every town. This is a stark contrast to the Burmese Military Junta, which would not garner 2% – of the vote. IF there was a vote. Our first hotel in Thailand is the same cost as in Burma but triple the value. In Thailand, there is internet everywhere. There is no internet in Burma for travelers. We were in Burma 4 years ago and things were progressing, but that has all stopped and the government is more repressive now. Changing the capital to an area in the north where satellites are unable to take photos. Building underground bunkers and not allowing any foreigners to stop, much less overnight in the area.

Pai Thailand

We have visited this town 3 times. In 1985, the mountainous road was dirt and there were 2 basic guesthouses. By 1990, it had exploded as a backpacker’s stop now served by a paved road and many new guesthouses. The town is in a lush valley surrounded by jungle mountain scenery. Travelers flock here to the elephant training camp, trek to the hill tribe villages and river raft. Now, 2006, it is the beaten path. You know, Pizza, movie bars, scores of guesthouses and resorts. It still has that small town feel. We are drawn to the eclectic crowd at the local grocery store. You go in, buy your drink of choice, and sit out front at common tables on the street and talk. Here are some of the characters that we encountered. A Swiss guy, 42, riding a super dirt cross country motor cycle, who rides any path people can walk on. He sneaked into Myanmar on mountain paths and got to Mandalay (never stopped, never seen by the Military). A French women, 50ish, who found her way into a deserted drug town in Northern Myanmar. Said it was like being on a movie set of wide boulevards, a golf course, Casinos and no people. A young Chech, who has been traveling for 9 years, sometimes walking with a donkey. Christopher, who makes his living playing the diggerry-doo in the streets late at night and all over the world. (He has a rather limited repertoire, so must keep moving). Then there was Michael, 60ish, skinny, Welch man, persona non grata in the US. He was a dentist, turned LSD dealer in Holland back in the 80’s. One year jail-time in Amsterdam (I didn’t think you could get jail-time in Amsterdam). All this among the “follow the beaten path” travelers. A bonus was the owner of our guesthouse who is the Treasurer of the Democratic (opposition) party from Bangkok. He escapes to Pai whenever he can. And finally, our neighbor in the next bungalow, the bureau chief of the Associated Press in S. E. Asia. We stayed two days just for the conversations.

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