Overview

This is truly one of the most spectacular places in the world. Imagine bicycling through craggy mountains that tower over deep, windless fiords, and watching a lone white boat create designs on the still water below. Every moment is filled with such scenes, changing constantly with shifting fog, sunlight, and clouds. The best photos do not begin to do justice to the beauty of Norway.

The idea of a bike tour of western Norway was spawned in sunny and warm southern Turkey, where we met a fun-loving, beer-drinking group of Germans along the Mediterranean coast. Riding with them for several days, trading stories, we learned that their favorite trip was to the western fiords of Norway. Since they were enjoying bicycling in southern Turkey as much as we were, we figured they knew what they were talking about.

As it turned out, they hit it right on the head. The roads around the rugged fiords are easier to ride than those along the Turkey coast, and in fact, are some of the best-engineered roads in the world. Our tour followed one recommended by Nicholas Crane in Cycling in Europe, although we added a few variations to it along the way especially at the end to position ourselves for the ferry back to Bergen.

We started in Bergen and spent ten days riding north from there through the area with the most dramatic fiords. With more time, we would have gone 500 miles further north to the Arctic Circle where the distances and cold increase, but the splendor is unmatched. Or further south, where the fiords have a softer beauty. To the east, toward Oslo, the biking is still great, but the scenery and weather become more Sweden-like, pastoral and moderate.

Overall, the scenery and the roads in Norway are fabulous, but the uncooperative weather and high prices are definitely factors to consider. You just have to look at a map to see that travel will be fitful. You either go around the fiord or you take the ferries. On the negative side, the ferries are always busy, and you have to time your arrival at them carefully to avoid long waits. On the positive side, cyclists can slip right on the ferries with no fuss, and taking them is the perfect opportunity to stop pedaling, put your feet up, and enjoy the scenery that never stops.

How We Rate This Trip

Roads: 9

Considering the terrain, the climate, and the small tax-paying population, these roads in the fiordland are incredibly surfaced. All the paved roads are smooth even if they are single lane. I can’t remember seeing a pothole. This is great for rubbernecking. Down from the train at Flam, the road was gravel but rideable even on a touring bike.

Traffic: 7

There is a little traffic to contend with out of Bergen, but the drivers do respect bikers. The roads are not wide, but carry very little traffic. There are tunnels where bikes are not allowed to go through. We were able to hail a ride in a pickup truck, but this does cause logistical problems.

In the environs of Bergen, the traffic can be moderately heavy. There are bike routes in from the airport to Bergen. Once outside this area, the population is sparse so the traffic dies off. There are tour buses, but they are not that plentiful. Near ferries, you’ll know when the ferry has landed by the momentary traffic increases. On roads that are basically dead-ending at the ferries, properly timed, you almost have a private road of your own.

Weather: 3

The weather comes off the Atlantic, so it’s generally cloudy, cool, and damp. I’ll say this for these northern climates, around the 21st of June solstice, I doubt if you’ll run out of sunlight. The climate is maritime at sea level (fiord level), but over the passes even in mid-summer, it can be cold. The summer nights are cool or cold depending on altitude. The countryside is lush green because it rains often and there can be extended periods of light or even heavy rain. Rain gear is required. Let it be said that when the sun shines, it is glorious.

Winds: 4

The winds usually came strongly off the Atlantic. The fiords in deep chasms, are mostly sheltered from these winds. Over the passes, the winds can howl from the west but then in the chasms, the fiords can actually be glassed off. So wind strength varies greatly from place to place.

Scenery: 10

There’s never a moment when the scenery is less than spectacular. The place to view the fiords is from the roads which climb in and out of these watery chasms. If I were to designate the best scenery in the world, I think this is it. The well-engineered roads allow you to spend your time looking out instead of looking down. The best!

The views from the ferries are spectacular. You can put your feet up and watch as you trace the roads snaking down to the water’s edge off the passes. The villages are on the fiords and there is always a great view. There is only one factor that can affect this and that’s the weather.

Information: 5

There are excellent maps available, but the information is not bicycle specific. This is not a terrible problem since the roads are not heavily traveled. The lesser roads can be assumed to be good biking. English is widely spoken, so information is obtainable as you go. By asking, we easily discovered that there were tunnels ahead in which bicycles were not allowed. If you choose to go the way of the tunnels, you are left to your own devices to get through these tunnels. We were able to hitch a ride with little problem through our only tunnel..

Road Safety: 8

There is a little traffic to contend with out of Bergen, but the drivers do respect bikers. The roads are not wide, but carry very little traffic. There are tunnels where bikes are not allowed to go through. We were able to hail a ride in a pickup truck, but this does cause logistical problems.

General Safety: 9

Norway is very safe. This was no consideration at all. We don’t recall ever hearing mention of any kind of crime or stealing.

Value: 2

Here’s the rub. Like all of Scandinavia, there are plenty of taxes. This is the land of $5 beers and $3 cups of coffee. The cost of food and lodging was very high. We struggled and scrimped to spend less than $100 a day. Although sterile and bland, the rooms and meals did have some quality, but prices are simply too high.

Fluids: 8

We should be so lucky to get bottled water as pure as the water the Norwegians drink from the tap. The usual assortment of soda is available, but again it’s expensive. The beer is okay, but at killer prices.

Food: 6

The seafood was always fresh, although it was prepared in such a straightforward manner that it was a little boring. High prices drove us to eat pizza a couple of times, and even this was uninspiring. A weird statistic: Norway eats more pizza per capita than in any other country. The reason: it’s relatively cheap.

Accomodations: 6

Because of the prices, we usually stayed at the lowest end of the scale. B&Bs are available, but are also expensive. These cheap rooms ($50-$80/night) were very vanilla, but they were clean. A definite economizing move would be to camp.

People: 3

Taciturn. The best word is taciturn. They are not unfriendly. They are helpful when asked directions, but they are not outgoing. We really never connected with anyone during our stay. Reflecting this, there were few pubs or bars to meet the people in. Also, it’s as if the government inhibited the Norwegians more. It was apple harvest time, and we were looking for a fruit stand. Finally, we approached a farmer in his field wanting to buy some freshly picked apples. This was not allowed since all apples must be sold to the coop. The farmer’s son slipped us a couple of apples as we walked back to our bikes. Nice, but quiet.

Culture: 3

Things are simple in western Norway. Nothing is ostentatious. There are no great cathedrals, ceremonies or festivals. Everything is quiet and reserved.

History: 3

Outside of Bergen, there was no sense of history. The houses, even the older farmhouses, were straightforward and functional. The western Norwegians never built monuments, churches, or palaces. Bergen is a charming city on a pretty bay.

TOTAL SCORE 86

Route Descriptions and Maps

September 1990, We flew in and out of Bergen

Bergen Airport to Bergen 20 Ks

The airport is a long way from the center. If you need a map of Bergen, the tourist office at the airport can help you. You can ride out of the airport and find interconnecting bike paths and routes into Bergen. Small hills and some busy urban roads.

Bergen to Voss 115Ks

Welcome to the land of tunnels. There’s a long tunnel out of Bergen to Indre Arna (15Ks) which is off limits to cyclists. The option is along the fiord north around the peninsula 34Ks to Indre Arna. Some hills and urban traffic. Then on #E68 to #13, turn north (left) 9Ks. Take #13 to Trengereid (2Ks). From here it’s impossible to ride through the road tunnel. You have two options. Take the train (bikes accepted to Vaksdal or hitch a ride through the tunnel. Hint: A real good alternative is to get a ride to Vaksdal and avoid urban traffic. Continue on #13 to Dale through some shorter tunnels (15Ks). Stay on #13 east for your first climb. The major climb is in the first 10Ks. The pass is 34Ks from Dale. Then 21Ks into Voss.

Voss to Sogndal 87Ks

Take the minor road along the railroad tracks east to Mjolfjell (33Ks). It’s a gradual climb to the end of the road. Take the train (bikes are carried) to the top of Myrdal. The descent at first is steep on a crushed stone walkway, but then turns into a rideable gravel road down to Flam (15Ks). Either take the ferry to Leikanger from here or from Aurlands 16Ks down a scenic road along the fiord. From Leikanger, it’s 23Ks to Sognadal along the Sogndal fiord on #5.

Sognadal to Lom 143 Ks

Out of Sognadal on #55 to Gaupne 32Ks. Some hills, no major climbs. Gaupne to Skjolden on #55, 28Ks along fiord. Continue on #55 and start climb to Sognefjell Pass, 1440 meters. Actually the major climb is over in 15Ks even though the actual pass is 37Ks from Skjolden. It can be cold and windy while up on top. There’s a quaint little shop and restaurant just before the final climb to the pass. Hot tea is recommended. From the pass to Lom is 46Ks, gradually descending. Usually you’ll be aided by a tail wind toward Lom.

Lom to Geiranger 98Ks

Take Highway #15 east to Bismo (19Ks). This is relatively flat. Then 42Ks to Grotli. The prevailing winds here will be in your face. These are wide-open spaces and the winds can be strong. 13Ks to the turnoff. This turnoff is in the middle of nowhere. It’s 24Ks to Geiranger on #58. First there is a climb to 1038 meters, but you start at almost 900 meters, so it’s not big. Now you’re ready. 18Ks of downhill and unparalleled beauty to Geiranger.

Geiranger to Honindal 80Ks

Continue around the fiord for 3Ks on Highway 58. Then climb on switchbacks out of the fiord valley. The pass is at 624 meters. Then down along a stream to Eidsdal (25Ks). Take the ferry across Norddals Fjord to Linge or Strand. If you end up in Linge, head east 13Ks on Highway 63 to ferry for Strand. There are tunnels on Highway 63. From Strand, go south on Highway 60. A gradual climb to 450 meters, then down to Hellesylt (29Ks). Then out of Hellesylt 26Ks on Highway 60 to Hornindal. You climb to 390 meters gradually and then down to Hornindal, on a lake, not a fiord.

Hornindal to Skei 101 Ks

Continue on Highway 60 around lake (6Ks) where #60 joins Highway 15. Over a low inland pass to Stryn. Out of Stryn continue along the Innvik Fiord to Olden (18Ks) and to Utvik (24Ks) on #60. then climb to 630 meters in 8Ks. Then to Byrkjelo 9Ks. On #14, Byrkjelo to Skei, you eventually and gradually drop to Skei (20Ks) on Jolshavatnet Lake.

Skei to Balestrand 107Ks

From Skei, go south 2Ks to Kjosnes (2Ks) on #625, then cross the bridge over the Kjosnes Fiord on the minor road along the south shore 22 Ks to Vassendan. Continue east 9Ks on #14, and turn left on #5 to Tjugum (84Ks). #5 passes through the high country. There is a pass at 543 meters 16Ks from the turnoff on #5. Then rolling ,desolate hills, until the next pass at 745 meters, 50Ks from the turnoff on #5. Then down to the Vetlefiord and along the fiord to Tjugum. Take #13 9Ks around Ese Fiord to Balestrand. Balestrand to Bergan by ferry.

Balestrand to Bergen by ferry

Stories from the Road

The Norwegian Gasp

For awhile, we thought that there was a very high incidence of lung disease. But Norway has some of the clearest air in the world. Then we theorized that the Norwegians, due to their staid and quiet life style, were gasping at our outward American ways, but Sally didn’t think so.

Eventually we deduced that this Norwegian mannerism simply expresses agreement. It sounds like the word “Yeah” said on a breath intake. Sooner or later you’ll hear it. Once, in southern Minnesota, we heard it. “Norwegian?” we asked. “Yeah,” he gasped, “how did ya know?”

The Southern Turkey Connection

The idea of a bike tour of Western Norway was spawned while cycling in sunny warm southern Turkey. Sally and I met a fun loving, beer drinking group of Germans along the Mediterranean coast and spent a couple of days re-meeting them along the way. Every year they took a spring and fall bike trip in Europe and since they had already found southern Turkey, we figured they knew what they were talking about when, among other places, they recommended Western Norway.

As it turned out, they hit it right on the head. We now agree that Norway offers the best scenery in Europe, possibly the world. We now agree that the hills in the rugged fiord were easier to ride than the steep hills along the southern coast of Turkey. In fact, the Norwegian roads are some of the best engineered roads in the world. And we now agree that if the weather cooperates and you have deep pockets, western Norway has some of the best biking in the world.

We landed in Bergen in September 1990 and spent 10 days riding out of Bergen to the north. This is the area of the most spectacular fiords although with more time you could go both further north (500 miles north if you wanted to go to the artic circle) and further south. To the south, the fiords offer a softer beauty, further north, the distances, and cold increase but the beauty is undiminished. Further east toward Oslo, the biking is still great but the scenery and weather become more Sweden-like. That is more pastoral and more moderate in the summer.

We read the Norway chapter of “Cycling in Europe” by Nicolas Crane before we went. Our tour basically followed this recommended tour to a great degree although we added a few variations to the tour along the way at the end to position ourselves for the ferry back to Bergen.

For What It’s Worth

You just have to look at a map to see that travel will be fitful. You either go around the fiords or you take the ferries. On the negative side of the ledger, you do have to time your arrivals at the ferries so that you avoid long waits for the scheduled departures. On the plus side, the bikers can slip right on the ferries with no fuss. Also, you stop pedaling, get to take a break, but the scenery never stops.